Pages: 1
Posted by: Bobmack
did they change the foot brake I thought it was on a cable, the hand brake is the only one that you can bleed
Posted by: swampyjunior
Not sure if this will help or not but I do know of someone who had a similar problem and they were using DOT 3 brake fluid. They used DOT 4 as the service manual suggested and their problem was fixed.
I do not know the difference between Dot 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid. I believe one is rated for a higher temp than the other so it could have a higher viscosity or something.
SJ
Posted by: Bear4570
If all you did was change the pads, wny are you having to bleed them? That's the nice part about disc brakes is not having to bleed them after pad changes. Oh yeah, welcome to the nut house.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: Bobmack
did they change the foot brake I thought it was on a cable, the hand brake is the only one that you can bleed
On at least the 2004 400 and up the foot brake is hydraulic and there is a bleeder on the foot brake caliper. If nothing is going thru the brake line to the caliper, one of two conditions exist; 1=No fluid in the either the master cylinder, line, caliper or all three or 2=the master cylinder is bad. But changing pads only requires you to force the piston back into the caliper and R&R the pads and then pump the brake a couple of times. You should not have to bleed the system. If you are doing it any other way you are doing it wrong.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: catdude
here's the deal Bear
my brake pedal started pushing down with no pressure. I took my bike in for new tires last week. The guy at the shop said the brake pads were worn out. He then took the caliper apart, replaced the pads and for some reason there is no pressure. The fluid won't go through the line. He didn't have time to look at it. It was almost closing. Since I live an hour away, I brought my bike home, figured I'd fix it myself.
After opening the bleed screw and pumping and pumping on the pedal with no results, I opened the 2 elm set screws which drains the fluid from the master cylinder, I then filled it back up -- and pumped and pumped the pedal --- still no pressure.
Guy at the shop said the master has a small plunger in it and they were a pain to get primed.
I guess I'll have to take it back and see what he can do.
First off, disc brakes self adjust (as long as there is fluid in the reservoir, so the pads can not cause your problem. Changing the pads fixed the worn pad problem, but not your real problem.
You are aware that you have to close the bleed valve before you let the brake pedal back up. If you don't you just move the air bubble in the system back and forth. To prime the master cylinder, fill the reservior over full. Pull the line off the caliper and push down on the pedal, hold it and put a thumb and finger over the two open sides of the caliper fitting. Let the pedal up, now repeat until you get fluid at the fitting. Be careful to not let the reservior run out of fluid. If it won't pump fluid after twenty pumps the master cylinder is bad and needs replacement.
If it works, don't let all the fluid run out of the brake hose. Either keep your fingers on it or get the fitting above the master cylinder. Reinstall the fitting on the caliper, loosing as little fluid as posible. Now bleed the caliper the same way, only using the bleed valve instead of your fingers. Again, make sure the reservior doesn't go dry or you are defeating your purpose.
I don't think much of your dealer's mechanic, size of the cylinder is not issue, but how you do the priming and bleeding.
Posted by: Bear4570
You might concider upgrading to the 2005 master cylinder as mentioned earlier. I have had no trouble with mine.
Posted by: Bear4570
Now that Swampy mentioned it I too remember that Dot 4 is required for a reason.
Posted by: jeepguy
I'm buying a 2005 auxiliary brake system. Looks as if it should bold on. Lots of people tolm the 2004 master cyl was junk.
Posted by: jeepguy
I can let you know next week as mine should be here Thurs or Friday.
Posted by: jeepguy
I used DOT 4 and had no luck. All the parts to swap to a 2005 system was only 200 bucks, I think the master cyl for the 2004 was nearly that much by itself.
Posted by: catdude
I have a 2004 Arctic cat 500 automatic.
The back brakes ( foot pedal one ) were worn, I replaced the pads, however --- I cannot get the line bleed. Can't get fluid to go through the line.
Guy at the shop said they were a pain in the butt to bleed.
Anyone have an easy solution?
Thanks : )
Posted by: catdude
well, I guess that's the main problem -- somehow the pressure was lost. The pedal would go down with no pressure. Don't see any leaks anywhere.
I had new Mudlites put on the other day, the shopguy never had time to fix the brakes up. He said he had the prob with a bike not long ago and it took quiet awhile to prime them.
Posted by: catdude
here's the deal Bear
my brake pedal started pushing down with no pressure. I took my bike in for new tires last week. The guy at the shop said the brake pads were worn out. He then took the caliper apart, replaced the pads and for some reason there is no pressure. The fluid won't go through the line. He didn't have time to look at it. It was almost closing. Since I live an hour away, I brought my bike home, figured I'd fix it myself.
After opening the bleed screw and pumping and pumping on the pedal with no results, I opened the 2 elm set screws which drains the fluid from the master cylinder, I then filled it back up -- and pumped and pumped the pedal --- still no pressure.
Guy at the shop said the master has a small plunger in it and they were a pain to get primed.
I guess I'll have to take it back and see what he can do.
Posted by: catdude
thanks a million Bear ---- I'll give what you said a try tommorow.
Posted by: catdude
tried again today bear with no results. Must be a bad master : (
Posted by: catdude
pretty sure that the master cylinder is gone. I unhooked the brake line from it, took it right off the bike, filled it with fluid and pumped on the shaft --- no pressure built up.
There seems to be lots of play in the shaft and I noticed small air bubbles come out from around the rubber boot.
also, I was already using DOT 4
thanks everyone for your input
