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Posted by: Bear4570
Yes, the clutch is covered. Tthe belt no, unless something else covered fails and takes out the belt.
Posted by: Catterman
v2, that noise is probably the common Kawasaki noise. They come with loose belts from the factory. There are a lot of things you can do to it, like removing a shim or changing springs. If you want exact details let me know and I will get you directions, but see what weez has done to his, that is about right. Good luck.
Posted by: Catterman
Well I don't know how much help I would be, as I never have done it before! I just have the directions.
Here is a link for the V2 to get all the tricks out of her Clicky As you can see on there it is normal for the belt to get loose after a break-in.
Also, for a GREAT example on how to do the clutch, including pictures, this is the Link for you.
v2, don't know how machanically inclined you are, but it takes anywhere from 45 minutes to 3 hours to do. I could do it with no problem, but I am SLOW in my auto/mechanical skills for some reason and would be looking at the 3 hour mark.
Posted by: Catterman
I didn't write this, it came from a buddy of mine from Minneapolis.
650 V-Twin “Need to do” mods and tips:
1. Get the RF filter installed by your dealer. This prevents false trips by the belt sensor. The part # if any one interested it is 0430-044A. A false trip will put your machine into “Limp Mode”, which limits your quad to 8mph (give or take), and could put you in a jam if you are out in the bush.
2. Get the belt reset jumper from your dealer. This should be a free part. This is used to reset the belt sensor in the event that you get a false trip. Keep it somewhere on your bike at all times so it is available whenever you need it.
3. Belt light or limp mode resetting procedure:
a. Unplug the 4 pin connection in the harness just above the clutch.
b. Plug in your jumper to the male end.
c. Unplug the 2 wire plug closest to the 4 pin (Not the one going to the belt failure switch)
d. Turn your key on to run position. The belt light on the dash will flash fast at first, then change to slow flash after a few seconds.
e. Turn key off, reconnect 2 pin plug and remove jumper and plug the 4 pin plug back together. It should now be reset.
4. Check belt deflection. Most of the 650&39;s come on the loose end of the tolerance scale and need to be tightened up after just a short period of time. Reshimming your clutch will tighten the belt, thus preventing it from burning up prematurely with stock tires. Here is a link that shows you how to do that, complete with pictures. It&39;s is incredibly informative. Plan on it taking 2-3 hours your first time as you learn how to do it. If you have to go back in and do it again later, it will only probably tak you 45 minutes or so start to finish. http://kod.gotdns.com/index.cgi?album=P650...stment_Pictures
5. When trail riding, it&39;s best to drive in low…not high. This goes against everything that we&39;ve been told about driving in low on any kind of machinery. However, these Cats are geared to run up to 45-50mph in low (in factory stock condition). Driving in high gear on the trails (through mud, over downed trees, etc…) has proven to many of us to burn up belts prematurely. Use high gear for the straightaway trails where your speed doesn&39;t vary a great deal and you aren&39;t going up steep inclines. While yes, you can go through trails in high gear, your belt will be susceptible to premature failure.
6. 2004 models have a different set of exhaust shield grommets. The shield uses a pair of bolts to secure it to the exhaust. These bolt heads get extremely hot and can burn your leg and/or rainsuits that many riders wear during a trail ride. To fix this issue, simply get the grommets that come on the 05 on up models and install them. It takes $5 of your money and 2 minutes of your time and are available at your dealership. Arctic Cat part number 0423-533.
7. Keep your choke cables well lubricated and protected. The 650&39;s have a tendency to have choke cables stick, causing major headaches on a cold start. Keeping these lubed from the start will only help your cause as the days/months/years roll by.
8. Some people with 2004-05 models have reported frames cracking. While there haven&39;t been many (if any) reports of the cracked frame causing injuries or accidents, it is a situation that needs to be addressed by your dealer. Arctic Cat knows of this issue, and has to date replaced them free of charge, although some dealers will still charge you the $50 deductible. The frame situation is not an “epidemic”, but there&39;s been enough reported to constitute periodic visual checks of your frame. The later 2005 and all 2006 models have a more robust frame, which includes a brace under the seat to reinforce the frame.
9. The 2004-05 models are susceptible to soft/non-existent rear foot brakes. This is due to a faulty rear master cylinder design and can be fixed by replacing the old one with a 2006 master cylinder. On a side note, the 2006 master cylinder is cheaper than the 2004/05 part (so I&39;m told). As a point of clarification, the hand brake (which operates both the front and rear brakes simultaneously) works perfectly fine. This strictly pertains to the foot brake only.
10. When in Reverse, be careful. The reverse gearing isn&39;t geared all that low, so if you are really stuck in mud or are pulling someone out it may cause the belt to slip a bit. While I personally have not had this issue (I pulled out a 660 Grizz in reverse with no slippage), others have smoked their belt doing various feats in reverse. The best advice here really is to just monitor your machine when under load in reverse. If you feel it starting to slip…STOP! If you smell a burning rubber smell….STOP! Just backing up in reverse poses no threats to your belt.
650 V-Twin “Nice to do” mods:
11. Ignition Control Modules or ICM&39;s (which is used as a fairly generic term on this site) can make a substantial difference in power..
a. The Moose brand module (http://www.mooseutilities.com) is:
i. Inexpensive (under $100)
ii. Available at http://www.theoutdoorshopinc.com/ which is a site sponsor.
iii. Gives you more low end power by advancing the timing that AC/Kawasaki retarded during production.
iv. Is a plug and play part (requires no cutting/splicing of wires).
v. No rejetting is required.
vi. Does not replace stock CDI.
vii. Other non-moose brand models may require splicing and may offer different performance levels.
b. The Copperhead (http://www.velocitydevices.com/ which is a site sponsor) will:
i. Give you a power boost throughout the entire power band
ii. Runs you $300U, give or take.
iii. Replaces the stock CDI.
iv. Allows you to customize your performance by programming it with your home computer and their software.
v. Unclear if rejetting is necessary, but I do not believe it is.
vi. Other brand units are also available and may offer different performance levels.
12. If you plow, run larger/non-stock tires, pull heavy loads, or simply want more low end power/torque, installing aftermarket clutch springs may be the solution you need. There are many different combinations available just as there are many different riding styles and tire combinations available. To determine which is best for you, post a question and someone will come along with some advice/opinions for your particular application. You can purchase a Dalton brand http://www.daltonindustries.com/ kit from http://www.theoutdoorshopinc.com/
13. If you enjoy going into deeper mud and/or water, then you should consider snorkeling your airbox intake, belt housing intake, belt housing exhaust and differential. This extends the air ports to a higher level, thus allowing you to forge through deeper trails without introducing water into those areas that water is not welcomed and/or detrimental. Additionally, snorkeling your airbox will introduce cooler air into the combustion process, giving you more power. In the stock setup, the intake takes air that is warmed up by the engine, which doesn&39;t give you as much power as you could. When snorkeling your airbox, if you leave a 1.5” reducer in the system, you will not need to rejet. However, if you run 2” snorkels with no reducer, then you will likely need to rejet. Snorkel kits can either be made or purchased.
On a side note, there are a myriad of other mods you can do to your bike (handlebar risers, bumpers, exhaust, tires, etc…). However, these are the most commonly done mods for the 650 V-Twin line that I&39;ve seen.
Posted by: LawdogB2
What type of sound is it exactly? A rattle, squeal, clunk.....? Does it vibrate or shudder with the noise?
Posted by: LawdogB2
Have you talked to your dealer? Depending on how difficult it is to get to the dealer's you may start by taking the clutch cover off and just inspecting everything at rest at first and then while running. There are far more knowledgable guys here than me, I am just trying of offer a fresh perspective. I know how frustrating this can be. I know that you would like to catch the problem early if there is one before it starts eating parts. I agree that the warranty may not cover the belt but I would think that the clutch itself would be. If you're still under warranty and it is convenient enough, I would just take it back to the stealer.
Posted by: v2rider
I dont know if its new, or always been there, but if i rev up my quad in neutral, it sounds like the clutch is "loose" when i let off the gas. It seems to have a slight loose sound at the lowest rpms when i let off from revving it up. Is this normal? If not, is the clutch a warranty item? I know the belt isnt.
Posted by: v2rider
Kind of a rattle, but only for a second, at a low rpm then its gone at idle speed.
Posted by: v2rider
I think i will just bring it to you and let you do it!!!
