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Posted by: mrmom103ny
Well I did it again, Tore another out board front CV boot on my 99 300 4by4...I have the oxlite guards installed but that outer boot still gets hit.Looks like time to modify it. Anyone have experience changing these boots?Any special tools needed? I have had the dealer replace 2 so far to the tune of $300 bucks and had enough of those prices.Anybody have a good source for the replacement kit?
By the way I have just installed ITP type 4s with 589s......what a difference!!
Posted by: mrmom103ny
Thanx for the input..from.."Bear" an the "CVman". I see the boot kits on e-bay for 15 bucks?? and I will call the cat dealer and get a quote.I will most likely buy from Arctic cat to avoid any wrong part issues....and Bear says there is an instruction kit also.....cant hurt ..time to learn .....my mid 40s head needs a little cobweb removal......
Posted by: mrmom103ny
If my upper 50s head can deal with it so can yours.
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Bear 45/70
I still feel youthfull,but I must admit mid 40s isnt mid 20s...hahaha...any way isnt it not the age? just the mileage?
Posted by: mrmom103ny
Bear , I see you have a new 400I....what is your honest assesment.....Is that enough engine to move that machine around with any authority?? Is the 500 worth the extra $$$$$. I had concidered picking up another machine. I like the ground clearance on these new models.Are they stable on mountainous terrain?Whats your opinion of the cat auto. I have had experience with the Polaris auto and think the engine RPM is quite high vs the manual cat and Honda transmissions I have had experience with.
Posted by: mrmom103ny
Bear thanx for the breakdown.......Ihave heard great things about the 400....you substatiate what I have heard. Hard to believe a 376cc??(havent checked this yet)air cooled would run that well.I have a 450es Honda also which underwhelms me ....which is why I inquired on the 400. I wanted to make sure the 400 had some grunt. I prefer the air cooled engines for the simplicity and no radiator issues to deal with.....we ride in severe terrain which has been proven to be rough on radiators and cv boots.
Posted by: mrmom103ny
Bear, What is a decent price on the 400 manual??auto??
Posted by: mrmom103ny
Testosterone?you say??isnt that what made my hair fall out???.....no a 400 is fine......I lived through my younger years thankyou.....Kz1300 w/ 6into dg pipe,Formula 272sr-1 w twin 320 EFIs/ bravos,600 indy triple when that meant something...need I go on???never sky dived......a guy asked me why I would jump from a perfectly good airplane ????i didnt have an answer....I guess drew the line there.....
Posted by: Bear4570
Changing boots is plain old mechanicing and tools. The instructions that come with the boot kit walk you through it. I stopped my boot problems by getting the deluxe metal guards for the rear (Pn# 0436-151 at $32.70) and the deluxe guards for the front (Pn# 0436-304 at $76.38) that wrap around the axle and boot. No problems since either. They are worth the money. The boot kits are about $30.00 from AC and most dealers stock them. probably won't find them much cheaper and not quicker anywhere else. So far on my 400 the gaurds you have have worked, but I really like the wrap around guards.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: mrmom103ny
Thanx for the input..from.."Bear" an the "CVman". I see the boot kits on e-bay for 15 bucks?? and I will call the cat dealer and get a quote.I will most likely buy from Arctic cat to avoid any wrong part issues....and Bear says there is an instruction kit also.....cant hurt ..time to learn .....my mid 40s head needs a little cobweb removal......
Mrmom, If my upper 50s head can deal with it so can yours.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: mrmom103ny
If my upper 50s head can deal with it so can yours.
-------------------------
Bear 45/70
I still feel youthfull,but I must admit mid 40s isnt mid 20s...hahaha...any way isnt it not the age? just the mileage?
In your mid 20s you still heal fast. Your just start the long downhill to the "don't break your body" life style. I unfortunately hit a deer on a motorcycle at 47. Never have healed up properly.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: mrmom103ny
Bear , I see you have a new 400I....what is your honest assesment.....Is that enough engine to move that machine around with any authority?? Is the 500 worth the extra $$$$$. I had concidered picking up another machine. I like the ground clearance on these new models.Are they stable on mountainous terrain?Whats your opinion of the cat auto. I have had experience with the Polaris auto and think the engine RPM is quite high vs the manual cat and Honda transmissions I have had experience with.
mrmom103ny; My 400 is the smallest engined ute that is in the groups I run in usually. Speed wise it hits 57 against the rev limiter but the GPS says 54 mph. However I keep up well enough on the logging roads, but a 660s or even a 500s with a long enough straight will slowly pull away. I catch them again when it gets windy. The 400 will lift the front tires on pavement is 1st high range, in low range second gear it will carry them several lengths, so power is not lacking. A 500 auto sure won't accerate away from it, just a higher top speed (I would say 4 mph at most) and how often do you really spend flat out in high gear? As to the rock crawling, trail riding and the technical stuff it goes everywhere the bigger engined machines do and easier in some cases. The limit is me and the tires, me will get better and all the tires need is bigger lugs. Hill climbing, well it has gone over every hill that anybody else has. I am very happy with it. I feel the 400 is stabler than my 250 is, maybe the greater width. I like the cat auto alot and was gonna get one. Have a buddy with one and I liked it a bunch. However the dealer gave me such a good deal on the manual that I couldn't pass on it. Shifts just like the 250 did so no adjustment there. I never could get the 400 auto against the rev limiter at max speed like I can the manual. The difference is only 2 or 3 mph at most. I really like the locker, it has unstuck me twice in the first 400 miles, towed only once out of a jeep deeped ice and snow covered mud hole and nobody else opted to try it. My assessment is no the 500 isn't worth the extra money. I had enough in my pocket to buy a 500 auto and opted for a 400 auto untill he mentioned the manual and it's price. BTW, the 400 is AC's bestseller. Must be a reason.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: mrmom103ny
Bear thanx for the breakdown.......Ihave heard great things about the 400....you substatiate what I have heard. Hard to believe a 376cc??(havent checked this yet)air cooled would run that well.I have a 450es Honda also which underwhelms me ....which is why I inquired on the 400. I wanted to make sure the 400 had some grunt. I prefer the air cooled engines for the simplicity and no radiator issues to deal with.....we ride in severe terrain which has been proven to be rough on radiators and cv boots.
mrmom, The 400 does have an oil cooler with fan. Had the fan come on the other day for the first time. Had been running hard and stopped and chatted for about 2 minutes when the fan came on. Was 65 degrees out so I shouldn't have been surprised. The 376cc motor as a ton of torque and pulls well from idle to WOT. But the motor has never underwhelmed me. I also prefer the air coolng as much less things to leak or go wrong. Ridden some severe terrian since I got the 400 and so far no problems with the boots. My oil cooler is protected by the 2500# winch.
Posted by: Bear4570
Well, I can only tell you about the northwest coast. The 400 auto was marked at $5600 and the manual was $5400 on the tags. These price were $400 to $500 lower than the Cat dealer only 35 miles away, but he handles several other brands and tends to keep his prices up. My dealer dropped $200 fairly quickly and it got tough then. We had been in several times in the months preceeding the actual buy. On one of those visits we had been quoted a price of $5000 for a 400I manual shift. One of their preseason flooring plan machines. The dealer was getting their second order of machines in and needed to move the earlier machines. My wife had gotten it in writing and even though they only had two left now they honored the price. So I got the 400 at their cost. BTW, the dealer I was at moves more Cats than any other dealer in Washington state.
Posted by: THECVMAN
The easiest way to replace just the outer cv boot:
I would recommend changing the outer cv boot from the inner cv joint side. That's because on most vehicles the only way to get the cv joint off the shaft is to hit it off with a hammer. Then you run the risk of damaging the outer cv joint. The inner cv joint can be removed without hitting anything. All you have to do is remove "c" clips. The only way to remove the outer cv joint is to hit it off the shaft with a hammer. The problem with this is that you may damage the joint in the process so I would only recommend this if your replacing the cv joint anyway. If you are not replacing the outer cv joint then the safest thing to do is put it on from the inner cv joint side. The inner cv joint is very simple to remove. First you'll want to remove the clamps from the boot (you'll want to buy the additional clamp kit for $2). Being careful not to puncture the boot you can pry up on the tabs that hold the band in place or just cut by putting a screwdriver under them and prying up to give you enough room to get the metal snips under them. Once the boot is free slide it back toward the outer cv joint to expose the inner components. You'll find a large retaining clip that goes around the inside of the joint just above the ball tracks. Remove the clip by getting behind it with a small screwdriver. Once this clip is removed the inner cage, race, balls, & shaft will come out all together (wrap your hand around this to prevent the balls from falling out all over the place). You'll find a retaining clip on the back of the shaft, remove this with retaining clip pliers or a large screw driver to spread the clip open. Once this is removed you'll be able to remove the cage, race, & balls all together at one time. No your ready to install it on your new half shaft. Make sure the boot goes on first. Then place the cage, race, & balls on the shaft making sure that the tapered side of the cage and race are facing toward the outer cv joint. Install the clip to hold it onto the shaft. Then fill the inner cv joint housing with grease and place it over the cage, race, & balls. Install the large clip. Now pull the boot down and install the large clamp. Then take a screw driver and place it in between the small part of the boot and the shaft and push the inner cv joint in all the way until it bottoms out. Then pull it back halfway (or to the mid range of the inner cv joint) and remove the screw driver and install the small clamp. Your now ready to install the axle back in the vehicle. If you have any questions PM me and I'll be glad to help.
Danny
"thecvman"
Posted by: bkcntyxplr
To throw in my 2 cents (what the heck), Ive got an 05 AC 400i auto myself. It still only has 50 miles on it to be honest, but so far I LOVE it. My experience has been that new quads just get better as they get more broken in. If mine gets better, I'll be VERY pleased. I ride in the mountains and foot hills of Montana. I go through a lot of rough country, and steep hills, and other fun stuff. While Im being cautios with mine for the break in, it has plenty of power for any of the terrain I deal with. Its a BIT slow on the throttle response, but Im sure that will improve, and I can tell that it is still fairly stiff from the factory (engine wise, again...break in).
Ive already pulled a guy out of a pretty rough and muddy creek bed. It was about 1 1/2 feet of STEEP bank and mud pasthis tires. He was wedged in ther pretty good. He was pretty doubtfull I could do it because he coudlnt budge it, it was wedged so tight in the narrow bed. I hooked up to his frame with my winch and tried to winch him out. He moved some, but I slid more than anything. He threw up his hands, and I told him to stand back. I put it in reverse, locked the front diff. and grunted him out of it. Thankfully I was a bit above him so that I wasnt pulling directly against the bank. He got it started, I waved and away I went.
Point being....unless you're a testosterone freak a 400 will do just fine. Dont get me wrong fellas. nothing wrong with a bit of testosterone. If you can afford the extra dough, GREAT. Im just saying that you wont be dissapointed if you can't, or won't.
