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Posted by: 02AC375
Oops wrong thread....
Posted by: Bluethumb
Just a little note, last night we had my bud's 650 apart, looking for a fuel leak. We found that the choke plunger on the rear carb was stuck in its' bore, wouldn't move at all, and had the carb stuck with the choke partially on. This allowed it to idle off of that carb, and a little bit of adjustment on the idle adjustment screw would compensate for the front carb. . Once we took the choke plungers out, we could see that it was flooding the float bowl, then running down the choke cable and dripping out at the junction. Also, we took the throttle cable housing off, and with the idle adjustment screw turned all the way in (for fast idle) it was barely moving the throttle plates. We had to bend the tab to make it contact the adjustment screw at half way in, so we had some kind of idle adjustment.
After that, we got it started and noticed that the carb throttles were opening at different rates. The rear carb was opening first, followed by the front carb. You could see the rear diaphram moving while the front was still. They SHOULD move the same amount, simultaneously. We synchronized the throttle plates so that they opened together using the adjustment screw in between the carbs, and now had adjustment for idle speed as well. I don't think these carbs were set up from the factory, or even looked at prior to delivery, they just set the idle adjustment screw to get a half decent idle and left it at that. Really, you guys should check your carb set-up, I'm willing to bet you guys have some, if not all, symptoms. That rear cylinder was burning rich from day one, with the choke stuck on. He did notice a slight bog too, which is gone now, and the throttle response is a lot better.
Posted by: farmkid
i have a 04 500 cat haveing some of the same problems, its at dealer now for 3 rd time for same problem, 1st time they put a new float in it, raised fuel level, had it back 2 days was riding over rough ground, did same thing, starts sputtering then quits, when it started barley ran. tokk back 2nd time they repalced stator said that it was bad. last thurday it ddi same thing agian , so i loaded it up, took it to them , they dont know what problem is. i called arctic cat today, they said a technican was going to contact dealer. has 165 miles on it, bought it on the 20th of august this year.
farmkid
Posted by: farmkid
to all 650 ac owners i have a 04 500 ac that is doing the samething. i have had mine a the dealer 3 times in 3 months (once a month since i have had it ) the dealer cant find anything wrong either, i'am getting pissed also, i contacted arctic c at corp , they told me i can take it to another dealer if mine didnt get it fixed. maybe if more people contact the company something can get done. i have no idea about the check valve either , dont see anytrhing on my machine.
farmkid
Posted by: VNASTY
There is a flip over switch under the seat by the battery.It is a black box for safty when your atv flips over or on it side ,it will turn the engine off.Sometimes on rough terrain it will shake it up and cause the engine to cut in and out.Hope this helps!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: markie
Polaris Is ok for you people In AL, where there are no hills but here in Utah <mountain country> We need better engine braking than your 2 wheel ebs that polaris offers.Its ok for farm work and flat land but on steep hills its no good.
Posted by: markie
Is it true In Oregan you can make your atv street leagal.
Posted by: Wires
I agree with frndinalowplace, check the check valve.
I found on my '04 that it was so restrictive, that when you stopped with a part tank of fuel (either the ride before was rough, or the outside temp was hot), then a lot of pressure would build up in the tank, and force itself into the carbs.
I just pulled the check valve off (it plugs into that black tank behind the rear taillight). Solved all my hard starting and stalling problems.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: frndinalowplace
my 650 has never stalled out before since i bought it, but what hellonewman said about the oil level being on the high side makes sense. after doing an oil change, i was out riding and noticed oil dripping down onto the skidplate then onto the ground. i traced it to the that "duckbill valve" on the bottom of the airbox. turns out when there is too much oil(even if it is still in the range on the dipstick) it comes up into the air box and might clog the carbs. all u need to do is drain out some of the oil. When i was at the dealer purchasing it, he told me not to thread the dipstick in all the way when checking, but the manual says to thread it in. i guess when its threaded all the way in, it pressurizes the crankcase and forces some of the oil up which gives a false reading on the stick. shouldve listened to the dealer.
Not only is it not possible to pressurize the crankcase (it's vented to the atmosphere) but if it was pressurised it would be from the pistons coming down. The difference between the fill cap unthreaded and down tight couldn't be measured with a 1 psi gauge or change the oil level enough to see. The oil getting thrown around the engine by moving parts and will find it's way into the vent and the air flow in the air box will pull it up the hose into the box. It will be worse if the crankcase is over full.
Posted by: Bear4570
Quote
Originally posted by: markie
Is it true In Oregan you can make your atv street leagal.
Don't know about Oregon now but last year it wasn't legal. In Idaho you can run them on the street as manufactured. Washington has a law pending to allow street running of quads, as manufactured. Not on highways however.
Posted by: turbocoupe
ive had this happen before riding woop de doos for long period of time come to find out the check valve behind the tail light was sticking causing the tank not to vent correctly which causes the carbs not to get enough fuel to run and also wont idle needless to say i removed the check valve havent had the problem since
Posted by: pigsticker
Check your air filter, this happend to me, after an oil change, and we discoverd that due to the Hi crank case pressure these machines put out, if you put the oil up to the full line, it will shoot into the air box, and run like crap, until it drains out of the foam air filter. Happen to me, after a hard ride in Jackson county wisconsin.
Posted by: pigsticker
yes, you need to split that line in half. otherwise it will keep doing it. I am positive this is what it was.
Posted by: HelloNewman
I was out riding the other day and went over a pretty long stretch of very rough terrain at a fast pace and the Cat just quit running. I am assuming that the float in the carb got confused but I'm not sure, just wondering if anybody else has had this problem.
Posted by: HelloNewman
Have you heard from others with the same problem or am I the first? I guess what I'm asking is ; does this affect most 650's or only the ones we bought
Posted by: HelloNewman
Funny you should say that pigsticker since it happened right after an oil change, I haven't had it out since, but I'll have a look at the filter.
Posted by: HelloNewman
Now that would be like owning a Ski Don't, oh wait you live down south where there isn't snow, owning a Polaris would be like...being a Kurt Busch fan, I couldn't even imagine that scenario!
Posted by: HelloNewman
I started this thread and haven't really had a chance to take the AC again since...November? (I really need to take it out and run!) I'm paying attention to all replies and it seems this may be a bigger issue than I thought. I'm still thinking my problem may be oil in the filter but it is up north and I haven't had a chance to check it.
Posted by: HelloNewman
Mine only did it RIGHT after my first oil change and hasn't done it since, it has been suggested that if the crankcase is overfilled (still in the proper range on the dipstick, but on the high side) the oil can get into the intake and sufficate the engine. I never drained any off and it hasn't done it again, however I have not ridden on similar terrain since. I would see where your oil level is and go from there, others have done this and it has solved the problem...Good luck!
Posted by: HelloNewman
I have read about bypassing the check valve behind the tail light, I think it's even referenced in this thread somewhere...that also has fixed some peoples problems
Posted by: Rocksam
yes i have but i haven't found a cure. my guess was floats too but when i took them apart they looked fine had nice spring loaded seats
couldn't see any thing wrong. so if you find a cure other than slowing down ( thats all that worked for me) post up.
Posted by: Rocksam
i have heard of a few other people with this problem on atv nation but no one seems to have an answer
that works. the check valve is a good one but i don't think it is my prob because i have ridden with the fuel cap loose to let air in and it still happened. i have even pulled the fuel hose when i was having the prob and turned the key off and back on and got a good shot of fuel so i think the prob is in the carbs or like my old 460 ford the pump cant keep up with the demand when you are really gitin it.
on edit
i really don't think that many people ride these big ass bikes that hard or you would hear of this problem more often.
Posted by: Rocksam
any body figure this out yet? mine, just did it again to day. while it was doing it. i took off the fuel cap, no change, pulled the fuel line off of the selector valve turned the key on plenty of fuel shot out still wouldn't run above an idle. the only thing i can think of, is that the floats are sticking, but i didn't have any tools with me to pull the bowls and check.
Posted by: frndinalowplace
about the check valve for the fuel tank, when i unscrew the gas cap it is under vaccum, i can hear it suck in when its loosened, has this happend to you guys too? and about that oil level, that happend to me, went nuts trying to find out where all that oil was dripping from turns out the the airbox it pressurized and if u have too much in the crank case causes it to come up, when you check your oil dont screw the dipstick in, just put in and pull it out, that should give you a more accurate reading.
Posted by: frndinalowplace
my 650 has never stalled out before since i bought it, but what hellonewman said about the oil level being on the high side makes sense. after doing an oil change, i was out riding and noticed oil dripping down onto the skidplate then onto the ground. i traced it to the that "duckbill valve" on the bottom of the airbox. turns out when there is too much oil(even if it is still in the range on the dipstick) it comes up into the air box and might clog the carbs. all u need to do is drain out some of the oil. When i was at the dealer purchasing it, he told me not to thread the dipstick in all the way when checking, but the manual says to thread it in. i guess when its threaded all the way in, it pressurizes the crankcase and forces some of the oil up which gives a false reading on the stick. shouldve listened to the dealer.
Posted by: frndinalowplace
your totally right about that, i completely forgot about the venting. I guess it was just one of those times when someone just says something and u dont think twice about it.
Posted by: arcticlion
my 650 likes to sputter after a long day of riding hard, and doesnt like to idle right aftert that. The dealer checked it over and made it idle a bit higher , he said it was low, hopefully that will solve my problem.
Posted by: arcticlion
rock, what type of AC do you have? I just brought mine to the dealers for the second time for this exact problem yesterday. Iam starting to get pissed because they cant find the problem, the reason is because by the time I get to the dealer the AC is running fineof course out on the real trails the thing runs like $hit......can any one post a pic of the check valve?, iam not realy sure what everyone is talking about. thanks for any help
Posted by: 2c3
sounds like yall could use a polaris!!!!!!!!! lol
Posted by: Cruff
is my thread the same problem everyone else is having?
http://forums.atvconnection.com/messageview.cfm?catid=5&threadid=434056
Posted by: nwarticcat
Bought my 650 in march of 2004,first ride out of parking lot bike stumbles. Took to dealer say float level to high. Bike has been doing it since.[ STILL NOT FIXED] I think it has something to do with level sensor in the rear.
Posted by: nwarticcat
Just changed oil about 100 miles ago.I have the proper oil level.Buddies I ride with have not had this problem.We rode the sand dunes this last weekend,over studder bumps and berms.Thats when the problem starts.I think that articcat does not have a fix for any of their problems! I inspected the check valve,found nothing also.Had it at the dealer,they had it for 3 weeks or so.They could not duplicate.Does anyone know if the level sensor can be bypassed?
Posted by: nwarticcat
I don't know if you can make your atv street legal in this state. One thing I do know is we get hassled by the cops,forest rangers, and tree huggers for just crossing paved roads. It is legal to ride on gravel roads. Great riding here,but the tree hugg'n hippies are trying to close different areas down. So I will have to check into this topic.
