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Posted by: sly
Has anyone added extra lights on their quads? I would like to add hallogen running lights on the front and a reverse light on the rear. Has anyone used micro relays to power the lights when the high beams are turned on? I think the standerd wireing will burn up. Thus the relay. Correct?? I dont know so bare with me. Would I tie in a relay to turn on the running lights when I switch the high beams on (high beam as the switch on the relay) Also the reverse light wire as the relay switch..? If I need to I can run a toggle switch for the running lights but on the reverse lights that would be cheese"e. By using relays to tie into the wireing it will alow you to use existing circuits to run the extra lights and exclude the use of modification to activate manual switches.If any of you have done this please explain in detail how you did it,what you used, where you got It, and how it worked. I think this would be very valuable to the A/C forum as a MOD. Their is a lotta of tallent that uses this forum. And Just maybe one of you guys who contribute all the time and works on their quads alot might want to start a data base on "HOW TO" We can all contribute with knowledge or what we have tried. As an example Boner,Andy,Cowboy AND EVERYBODY ELSE because everybody contributes to this forum. I would try but I generally work 6 12"s And Im pretty new to working on quads. But what I pick up Ill be glad to pass on. It's just and idea, But hands on knowledge is hard to fine and where you would get the supplies is just as hard. The people I used as an example please dont be offended, It just seams you guys contribute alot and do your own work.
Posted by: Buckfever
Cowboy did you use the wire and the switch that came with the lights from Cabela's? Sounds like you stripped the bulky conduit and taped the wire to the rack. Then did you go under the hood and up into the steering column? That switch looks water proof but how do you mount it? I think it makes alot of sense to have it hot all the time. Five minutes of light here and there can really help and no flashlight in my mouth while I work on those little chores. Thanks....
Posted by: cowboy
Sly:
I'm running two pair of matched 55w halogen lights, which put out the power of an 85w bulb. They have an ion lens coating on them, but are also available in a clear lens. Take a look in the "snow pics" at the link below, you'll see where I've mounted them up front-on the top rack, just in front of my mortar box, and in back-on the outer edges of the rear rack, yet fully enclosed by the kimpex rear bumper. They work great in snow, I know that for a fact. I haven't been able to use them yet though in the dark with no snow for the reverse lights anyway. The fronts do a good job of filling in where the stock high beams won't cover. Though, for maximum light, you may want to go with the H.L. kit like Waco4Whlr has, or if that's not enough, you could go really extreme like GrizzlyRules did, with the KC highlighters (I think that's what they were anyway???)
I might make a suggestion though about the wiring-I've run into several times at night in pitch blackness where I needed to be either in neutral, or a forward gear, but still needed light behind me. With the reverse lights wired into just the reverse relay, that wouldn't be possible, so I wired in a switch up front. Since the lights are both identical front and rear-all four of them are the same, the switches that came with them are the same as well. They fit very nicely on the pod just below your indicator lights. It is pretty tight up there as the plastic is pretty close to the ignition terminal, but on the left side of the pod, there is plenty of room for the pair of matching switches-it's just a bear to get your fingers up in there! Mine are both wired hot all the time, as I often need extra light for short periods of time with the machine not running at all. Granted, it's only for a short time, so I don't have to worry about draining the battery-and, as these lights were designed for atv use, they pull less power than larger lamps, so I don't think they'd hurt that much anyway if left on for longer periods.
The kit I got came from Cabelas, was something like $50-60 or so??? Anyway, it comes with everything you need for mounting on any type of unit-I have several parts left over in fact, due to the way I mounted them-they give you lots of extra parts, which is nice. There is a relay in them, along with the switch and all the wiring-everything is nice and neat in conduit as well. I stripped the conduit off and used that elsewhere for other projects, then just tied the wires up neatly along the frame. With this method, you can pull the seat off and it looks nearly stock, everything is clean and tight-they even include zip ties! Also, if done properly, you won't have to worry about sticks or other snags grabbing a loose wire and killing your lights.
Sorry to go into such length, just was hoping to let you know as much as possible and another option if necessary. I really like the switch setup, it allows for light whenever need be, not just when the machine is on, or when in reverse only. Very nice when towing logs after dark-or other items for that matter-and being able to see them pulling behind you-kind of lets you know if you loose something along the way too. Again, if you want a ton of light like the daylighter kit with a lot of candle power, you might need something a little stronger, but for me, these 55w halogens with the 85w power work very well.
Best of luck, hope that gives you another option,
Mike
Posted by: cowboy
Buckfever:
Sorry about the delay, had a terrible weekend-check out my newest post. Anyway, yeah, I removed all the conduit, that way you can get a nice clean fit job. I mounted the lights, then ran the wires where I wanted them. From the battery, they fun along the right side frame-zip tied to the frame nice and tight. They then run under the gas tank, and up the steering column into the light indicator assembly. On the left side of the ignition switch, there is enough room to fit the two switches side by side, though it is tough to get your fingers in there. The switches are a push button type and fit nicely in position. I've had the lights and switches in a ton of water before and not had a problem yet, so I hope that helps. I did use some of the extra conduit over the wires to the lights themselves though for a cleaner look. -only about 6" or so to each light, as the lights stick out a ways from the rack and machine. Oh yeah, I just drilled a hole threw the black plastic there, the switch fits right in from the back side, with a screw type washer holding it in place. The rubber switch cover fits over that.
Hope that helps,
Mike
Posted by: cowboy
UtahRancher:
I frequently run my auxillary front lights while winching, and have not had a problem to date. Have also had both front and rear lights on, along with running the winch on one occassion, but the winch pull was pretty easy and didn't last long. I usually only use the reverse lights when I'm backing up, or towing stuff after dark, or occassionally when extra light is needed in the back. So, like I said, under those conditions I haven't had any battery problems yet. I run the front lights quite a bit.
As for the mounting, Cabelas does do a good job about sending a TON of mounting hardware. They'll mount to nearly everything you can think of. Hell, I have most of the kit left over for spare parts in the garage from both sets of lights. I'm not sure though how much long distance light they will give though from mounted that high up on the bars. They have that ion coating, which is more or less like a fog light of sorts. I haven't really aimed mine properly lately-they got knocked around pretty good a few times, but they won't put a long distance beam out, like a kc daylighter would for instance. They do a great job up close though, and compliment the stock lights very nicely. I've considered rubbing off the ion coating, as that just might give a longer beam, but I'm not sure, don't want to try and be sorry I did if you know what I mean.
Hope that helps, and best of luck,
Mike
Posted by: ttaylor
Sly,
As someone mentioned earlier that Highlifter and ATVLIGHTS.COM both make kits to have headlights mounted on handle bars and a reverse light. both companies use the existing switches. The highlifter kit is $100 and the ATVLIGHTS kit is $170.
I am not sure if they would sale the wiring harness or mounting kit seperately. You can pick up the lights from Catalogs (northern hydraulics, cabelas, DennisKirk, etc.) I know the ATVLIGHTS place uses a 55Watt halogen with a trapezoidal lense. I have seen the exact light in Northern Hydraulics for like $15. You can buy a mounting bracket by buying the clamps that hold on a cross bar on to handle bars. You will need to make your own mount for the lights to attach to the clamp. I don't know that much about wiring though. I don't think it would be that hard to figure out.
Posted by: ttaylor
Utahrancherrider,
Do you know the watts or amps your stator puts out? match this up with the total draw by your lights, winch, etc. If you exceed the amp/watts of your stator then you will start to drain your battery. If you are below then your stator will put out enough power to run the accessories and still charge your battery.
Now you can send your stator in to have it put out more power if you need to.
Posted by: ttaylor
Okay here is a formula I got from an electrician to help convert watts, amps, and volts. This will let you know how much draw you can pull with the accessories versus the output by your stator.
"P=IE" Where P=power in watts, I= current (amps), E= voltage.
Example: If your stator is putting out 25 amps. Running from a 12 Volt source. You are wanting to install two 55Watt lights. You want to know if you will have enough power to run the lights without draining the battery. 12V/110 watts = 9.16 Amps. So, If your stator is putting out 25 amps and you install two 55 watt lights then you will draw an additional 9.16 amps from the stator leaving 15 amps left to power your other equipment.
I hope I made sense with this!!!!!
Posted by: BigMud2000
I've added running lights and hooked them up straight to the high beam hot (no relay) I was concerned about too much draw or over loading, but for several weeks they presented no problems. We used some clear-lens Driving lights from Wal Mart, they cost about $17 bucks and are very bright. I added a reverse light to mine using a spare fog light, At first i was going to use a relay spliced into my reverse indicator, but after I thought about it, I figured there would probably be times when I would want the light on and not be in reverse, so i just hooked it up to a standard toggle, mounted next to my reverse knob so I can just nudge it with my hand when I go into reverse. I'm glad i did it that way, I've used that light many times when I didn't need to be in reverse. A buddy of mine wired in a backup beeper on his Honda for the hell of it, now that gets some looks when he starts backing up..
Posted by: waco4whlr
Sly,
I haven't added reverse lights, but I did add a handlebar mounted headlight. Very similar to the headlight on a Honda 450 or Rubicon. I bought the light kit from Higlifter.com. It comes with complete installation instructions, wiring, light, bracket. Pretty easy to install. Instructions tell you to wire light into existing headlight wires. I did blow a couple of fuses after installation, so I bought some larger fuses, no problem since. In my opinion, I think it works great and looks great. Oh well, there are several guys who have back up lights on their cats: scotto is one of them. Take a look at his pics on the net. Good luck in whatever you choose.
Posted by: waco4whlr
thomascw:
No, I haven't had any problems with it hitting stuff on my front rack. It sits up pretty high, although I know it would be possible to have something be in the way. It doesn't come with a switch, it works with your existing one, high and low beams. You just splice the wires that come with it into the existing ones. There are three wires: ground, high, low beams. Works pretty slick. You have to feed the wires down through your steering column, splice into existing wires, and then I zip tied the new and existing wires up out of the way, after a heavy dose of electrical tape. I haven't had any problems with my existing bulbs at all. I have a 2001 AC500 auto and although the lights aren't the brightest, I have never had one go out. Overall, I thought it worked pretty well.
Posted by: YukonRon
Sly:
I wired my low beams to come on with the high beams just like DakotaCat described above. Make sure you fuse that 12v line right where it comes off the battery. I've learned the hard way that trying to put out an electrical fire fed by an unfused hot wire is no fun.
One extra tip. You mention the use of "micro relays". I've tried the little mini relays from the electronics store and they don't hold up. The vibration and movement of the wires will break the little tabs off where the wires are soldered on. Get a good heavy duty relay from the auto parts store.
Posted by: BearHunter
I have also mounted 2 55 watt halogen lights on the handlebars of my 2001 Ac500. I bought the set of Driving Lights from Walmart for about $40.00 Cdn (approx $6.00 US) and had a piece of Aluminum checker plate made to bolt where the speedo bolts on. Then just a simple power wire running to the battery with a 2 pole switch in it, and now I have lots of light.
I do have some pictures of the lights mounted if you would to have a look.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1603218&a=12221773&f=0&vt=vp
You could also make the bracket come up as high as you want, like the HL kit.
Posted by: GRIZZLYRULES
well....like cowboy said..if u wanna go EXTREME like GRIZZLYRULES (me) do this...
http://photos.yahoo.com/grizzlyrules504
u will see 2 reverse lights in one caterogry..i have taken those off (water messed them up) i have since added ANOTHER revese light to my cat...it is a 55 watt light...i used the wiring from my old reverse lights and used it to power my new one...i like the new one ALOT better...i will ALSO be getting 2 warn trail lights in a few days....i THINK i may put those on the front or at the rear. well enjoy the pics.
lata
Posted by: thomascw
I saw the daylight kit in highlifter and was also interested.You said that it was wired into your existing lights so I assume that it comes on with the existing switch.Have you had problems with it hitting stuff on your front rack when turning?Also has anyone tried to replace the factory headlight assembly with another brand?I have an AC 500 man(2000) that I bought new in Jan.I am very happy with my purchase but I can't keep headlight bulbs for more than one ride.
Posted by: UtahRancherRider
Have you guys that are running auxillary lights ran into any problems with draining your stock battery? I've been thinking of adding Cabelas ATV lights to my Rancher but I'm a little concerned that my battery might not be able to handle the drain of extra lighting along with my heated grips/throttle, and the occasional use of the winch. I guess my question is, would I be able to run everything at once with no problems? I know the winch would seldom be used at the same time but it's always a possibility.
Cowboy, would the mounting hardware that comes with the Cabelas lights allow them to mount to the handlebars without looking too awkward? I like the idea of "steerable" lights. Sure wish Ranchers had the third light pod like the Foremans.
Posted by: DakotaCat
If you want to turn your extra front light on when the high beam is turned on you will need to find the wire that fires the high beam side of you head light, this can be done pretty easy with a tester, take that tap and connect it to your relay where it's instruction indicate for you to hook the switch to. For reverse, if you want them to come on when you place the machine in reverse, pull the gear indicator pod off and tap into the wire that lights the REV indicator, make sure it is 12VDC first, hook it to the relay the same as above. With this set-up when you hit the high beams the extra fronts will come on and when you hit reverse your rear light will come on. You should not blow any fuses this way either if things are wired correctly, just make sure your 12V feed to your relays is fused, and I would bring that directly off the battery and I would ground directly to the batery also.
