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Posted by: Tim250R
Wider a-arms and axle will do the trick. I can nail my R through the turns and it rarely ever two-wheels.
http://members.xoom.com/TheATVPit
Tim Thibodaux ('86 TRX250R Bad to the Bone)
Posted by: RoostKing
Dont forget, they are pros, so i would imagine they have flipped plenty!! Practice.
RoostKing
Posted by: jhall
RidE,
The wider A-arms and axel will certainly help you in the corners, but if you are planning to race cross country the wider track may hinder you in the tight spots such as through the trees. Alot of racers I know use alot of body english and a bias ply tire such as Holeshots, or razers that have good traction but also let them slide around turns and corners using the brakes, clutch, and gas. It takes alot of practice to learn when each should be applied at what time but after you learn how it becomes second nature.
As far as how to get started in racing, ask some of your local cycle shops about racing in your area.
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400EX WOODSRACER
Posted by: Dill
alot of it is rider skill too. Mark Erhart and Tim Farr have been riding for years and years and years, and are GOOD at it...
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Pete Clyne, 1988 TRX250R http://www.parkrapids.net/pete
Posted by: tony
i have a banshee with blackwater tires and i rarly go up on two wheels when im taking corners. when i go into a corner i give it gas and shift my weight to make the tires slide. also stiffer shocks will help you slide better but they make landing off a jump and the trail a little bumpier.
tony
'97 banshee
Posted by: RidE
All right, I got my '96 Mojave from a racer(it was covered in sponsor stickers, and had dirt sprayed all over the fenders), but all he has on it is a Cobra exhaust, a K&N air filter, and the rear tires are aftermarket made by "Dynatex". This has absolutely nothing to do with what I'm asking and I have no clue why I even said it. Let's get on with the show...
OK, I'm watching Mark Ehrhardt take the corners at high speed, and his tires just slide right through...WAIT! All of the racers are slowing down a little for the turns, but basically gunning it at the corners and not even coming up on two wheels. What's going on, they just stay flat and their tires slide right through the corners. What I'm wondering is this...is it something they did to their quads to decrease their chances of rolling? It's gotta be more than just loose ground. Is it a modification that allows these pro quads to do that? It's definately something different than stock, I'd just like to know what it is.
My other question, XC racing appeals to me more than any other type of racing(MX vs. XC = close), and I was wondering how you get into it? It seems like it would be a lot easier to get into MX, but exactly how are you supposed to get into XC? Is it just a long trail with all different types of terrain? Do they even make man-made obstacles(jumps, whoops) besides the actual trail?
Later, a lot more people are wondering the same things, so if you could help out with any of that, it's greatly appreciated!
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- 1996 Kawasaki Mojave, 1998 Kawasaki Mojave, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8090/home.html
Posted by: RidE
Are there any top brands for those like there are for exhaust? If so, what? Thanks
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- 1996 Kawasaki Mojave, 1998 Kawasaki Mojave, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8090/home.html
Posted by: RidE
So I'm planning on getting a wider axle, wider A-arms, and what about spacers? This guy with a 250r said he put spacers in the rear to widen it out. Could I do this IN PLACE OF the widened axle? Just so you know what I'm saying, would spacers be as effective as a wider axle? Glad to know that stiffer shocks can help. Man, I've only got an 18 inch jump, and I've already heard the wheels hit the front fenders on my Mojave. Does this sound right? It didn't seem possible to me, but it's happened a number of times where the front wheels barely hit first, and I hear a pop, like the wheels coming up and hitting the fenders or it bottoming out or something. This sounds weird, but maybe further travel might help(?). I'm looking at a Tecate-4 all stock in OK candtion for $1500. This a good deal?
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- 1996 Kawasaki Mojave, 1998 Kawasaki Mojave, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8090/home.html
Posted by: RidE
So, if I get a-arms that are 1-inch wider than my stock ones, and a swing arm that is 1-inch longer, that'll get the job done? What about the axle?
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- 1996 Kawasaki Mojave, 1998 Kawasaki Mojave, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8090/home.html
Posted by: RidE
Yeah, I experimented with technique a lot, to find that if you lean far enough and low enough to the inside the right way, your rear wheels will slide in just about anything.
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- 1996 Kawasaki Mojave, 1998 Kawasaki Mojave, http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8090/home.html
Posted by: Mike Frey
With your Mojave, you must realy have a problem with the inside wheels lifting off the ground in the corners. My friend has a Lakota, which has basically the same chassis dimensions as the Mojave, except a 1" longer swingarm. When he would take his quad thru flat turn, bam, the inside wheels would pick right up. He did have Holeshot XCTs, so he had more traction than stock. Definetly go for wider a-arms and axle, and a longer swingarm. All of those things will help handling. Good luck and keep everyone posted.
Posted by: TULLEY366
START OFF RACEING AT A LOCAL LEVEL. HARESCRAMBLES ARE WOODS RACES.THEY AREXC EVENTS BUT NOT ON THE SCALE OF A GNCC. THEY LESS EXPENSIVE AND WILL GIVE YOU A FEEL FOR WHAT YOU NEED. ON YOUR BIKE YOU CAN GO WITH PLUS 1 INCH ARMS AND NOT WORRY ABOUT THE WIDHT FOR THE WOODS PLUS A PLUS 1 OR 2 SWING ARM WOULD HELP. CONTACT MICKY DUNLAP AT FOURSTOKETECH FOR MORE ON THE BIKE HE HASE BUILT SOME REALY FAST KAWS.
Posted by: warpt13
I think you should get 2" wider a arms and a 2" wider axle. If I were you I would do that. It shouldn't make a real problem on long trail rides because it is already pretty narrow. As far as brands go for an axle I know durablue are good but expensive. And if you get a new axle you might have to get a new axle carrier but I'm not too sure about that. Also when the pros ride their quads probably have alot more power than yours causing mor wheelspin.
Posted by: Raychalp
As far as Pro setups go, they have special Zero Preload shocks that sit very low to the ground. This lowers the center of gravity and prevents tipping. Second, they have very wide machines. A typical stadium racer uses +3 a-arms and a +2 axle. That means that the quad is 6 inches wider in front and 4 inches wider in the back. The combination of proper body position, braking and throttle control all account for the fact that their machines rarely tip over. As for racing MX you definitely need better than stock shocks. Works Performance can build you some custom entry level shocks at a fairly low price. Most people think that the faster they make their quad the better ther will be. This is not really true. You could have the slowest machine at the track, but with correctly setup suspension you would find yourself very competitive. Stay away from spacers as they put more stress on the axle and studs. You probably won't need the extra width right away even for MX racing. As far as XC racing you want a lot of ground clearance to keep from hitting logs and rocks. A low center of gravity is not as important because XC racing is not as fast. If you are having trouble finding places to race where you live go to the AMA website and search for your district. They go by state. The address is www.ama-cycle.org , here you should find all the info you need to get into any type of ATV racing.
