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Posted by: LT80
Welcome to the ATV Connection forums. BR>I'd suggest checking both the stator and coil with an ohm meter. Your local zuki dealer should be able to give you the correct resistance readings.
Posted by: LT80
After thinking more, I'd definitly check the plug wire and cap.
After sitting that long, ya never knopw what may be going on. BR>I should have thought of that for the first reply.
Posted by: LT80
FYI: it should cost you about $53. That's the price I got off a site anyways.
Posted by: LT80
SORRY!!!!!!!!!!
I double checked the price. I had the wrong part.
The price you paid is acceptable.
Posted by: LT80
You prolly have the stock (92.5) main jet in it. The motor obviously wants a lil different mixture.
You can leave the needle there or lower the main jet. Either is fine.
FYI: clip up/needle down leans the mixture.
Posted by: maggiesboy
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Originally posted by: RAS
Ordered new coil today. Very dissapointed with local suzuki dealer. Brought coil with me over to store and asked if they could check it or give me the ohm numbers so I could check it myself. The service manager takes the coil and goes to the back, returns within a minute and says that they cannot check the coil unless they have the entire bike. I asked if he had the ohm readings so I could check it myself and he said "I don't know what you are talking about and why don't you just go and buy another one anyway". After thinking about it I decided that was the best option. Expecially, with their labor rates being $75.00 per hr. So, I should have the part in 5 days. Will update when new coil is installed
secondary resistance on the coil should be 12.0 - 17.5 ohms sir.
I'm sorry your local shop treated you like that. The factory service manual has these specs for testing purposes. That is just bad business BR>
stator coil is 173 ohms plus or minus 20% this is black red wire to stator base (ground)
Posted by: maggiesboy
Quote
Originally posted by: RAS
No one ever responded to the readings or the way I did the testing but that is ok. GOT THE NEW COIL IN TODAY. Put it on and the sure enough a nice blue spark. Put plug in engine and she fired up right away. Onto something else. I know I will have some more questions as this build continues.
Sorry Ras, I fell asleep at the wheel........didn't mean to leave you hangin' on the readings. I've been spending my intro-net time in the garage majal preppin motorsickles for the TT race this weekend
Posted by: RAS
I need some help figuring out a spark problem on my lt80. ATV has sat up for 5 years. Tore entire bike down. Replaced all bearings in motor, upper and lower. Bored 40 over , rebuilt carb., new boysen dual reeds, new plug , new starter and petcock. Checked spark and at first was strong. Engine tried to start at first and then would never start again. Checked spark again this time showing little to no spark. I pulled the stator and magneto and cleaned all surfaces. Checked all connection and clean any that look questionable.
This is where my problem starts. As I stated the bike has sat for 5 years and I could have several problems to tackle. I do not know technically what is responsible for producing the spark. Is it a combination of the stator and the coil? If so which should I replace first and or how can I check them on a non running engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by: RAS
Thanks for the kind words to the newcomer. I have read many topics on this forum during my build, sitting in the wings waiting for the right time to jump in. Well the time is here. I have noticed that you are the resident expert on lt80's. Before this is all over I will have many more questions. As I indicated I have read many topics and learned a great deal already. I will contact the local deal and get the necessary info.
Posted by: RAS
Ordered a new Ricky Stator last night. Figured that I would be putting a light on at some point so I would need the higher output. As far as the plug wire and cap, they both look good but I will get a new wire anyway. I will update as soon as I get the stator in.
Posted by: RAS
Received stator today. Pulled old one out and put new one in. Still no fire. Onto the coil. I am going to go by local suzuki shop and see if they will check it for me. if not at least get ohm numbers. I will keep everyone informed as to the progress. If anyone has any thought please feel free to give a shout.
Posted by: RAS
Ordered new coil today. Very dissapointed with local suzuki dealer. Brought coil with me over to store and asked if they could check it or give me the ohm numbers so I could check it myself. The service manager takes the coil and goes to the back, returns within a minute and says that they cannot check the coil unless they have the entire bike. I asked if he had the ohm readings so I could check it myself and he said "I don't know what you are talking about and why don't you just go and buy another one anyway". After thinking about it I decided that was the best option. Expecially, with their labor rates being $75.00 per hr. So, I should have the part in 5 days. Will update when new coil is installed
Posted by: RAS
Thanks for the readings, I will check coil out tomorrow. Goes to show you that all the local shop was interested in was making several hours of labors. As far as the new coil I paid $146.00. By time this is all over I could have bought a new bike. Although I would not have one with all the tricked out stuff.
Posted by: RAS
Just got finished checking coil. Let first explain how I did it and what I got and then someone can tell me if I did it right and what my findings are.
Set meter at 20 ohms.
Black lead to spark plug connection( without spark plug wire being in place) and red lead to one of the two connections. This produced a reading of 13.78 ohms
Black to spark plug connection and red to the other connector. This produced a reading of .01
I assume the coil is bad because I should have gotten similar readings from both connectors?
Is that correct?
Hopefully, this explaination and the assistance from the resident expert will help someone else having similar problems.
Posted by: RAS
No one ever responded to the readings or the way I did the testing but that is ok. GOT THE NEW COIL IN TODAY. Put it on and the sure enough a nice blue spark. Put plug in engine and she fired up right away. Onto something else. I know I will have some more questions as this build continues.
Posted by: RAS
Not a problem on the delayed response. We all have lives outside of our computers. I do have another question. When you move the clip on the needle valve down (towards the bottom of the needle) are you causing the engine to run leaner or richer. I had to move mine all the way to the bottom before the engine would hold a constant idle and provide good throttle response. Is this ok or do I have something else going on. The engine was just bored 40 over, head shaved .10, dual reeds and modified reed body, and stock pipe.
Posted by: RAS
Took a little while off from working on the bike. Although, I did get it back together today. Engine ran fine but needed to be choked by covering the carb before it would start. I guess I will take the carb off and clean it real good... again. Replaced the petcock with one from a Banshee. I like that much better and it was a lot cheaper. Also, not sure if i need to rejet the carb for the modifications to the engine and reed block? Any thoughts anyone.
Posted by: RAS
Finally, I found the problem with the carb. It was the choke, as I always had suspected. After removing and recleaning the carb I focused on the side port where the choke tube enters the bowl. I tried to blow air thru the hole, nothing came thru. I tried stiff wire and carb cleaner all to no avail. I finally resorted to a 1/16 drill bit. I drilled a little at a time until I could blow air thru the hole and feel it in the bowl. The hole maybe a little bigger than stock but it works all the same. After putting everything together I tried the choke. It worked, but as I mentioned earlier the larger hole must dump more fuel into the engine. It will start and stop pretty quickly with the choke on. I then take the choke off and it starts up with no problem. Ultimately, it was this or a new carb. Now onto the next project.
