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Posted by: geo
lowering the needle will LEAN out the fuel mixture since it drops the tapered part of the needle farther into the main jet nozzle. however, be aware, that this affects part-throttle operation only and should have no effect on idle quality. the more common and effective, albeit complicated, cold weather adjustment is to increase the size of the main jet. 2-cycles seem to be more sensitive than thumpers.
Posted by: geo
Quote
Originally posted by: smb05
Quote
Originally posted by: geo: the more common and effective, albeit complicated, cold weather adjustment is to increase the size of the main jet. 2-cycles seem to be more sensitive than thumpers.
Increasing the main will not help much for cold weather starts or even idle.
.
You are correct, I should have specified. But my experience with these machines is that you can get them to idle reasonably well, it's just when you start to give em throttle that they die (lean).
Sorry if i sounded too critical, didnt mean to. I think we all appreciate when someone like 2many takes the time to help out complete strangers.
Posted by: Chopper400ex
Just another little bump
Posted by: Chopper400ex
bump
Posted by: mastrblastr
Just bought a Gio 110 mini for my daughter. I will take off the float bowl and make sure there is no gel pac in the carb before I add fuel. I'll set the needle as well. Like 2many has hinted at, these carbs are not rocket science, but like anything, until you know how it works you can't fix it!! Good writeup on the carb tuning 2many. If any of you guys have ever adjusted the carb on a chainsaw, lawnmower, weedeater, it's pretty much the same thing.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Alot of people have a hard time starting and running the Chinese atv's when new and also when cold. Most of these come with a gelpac in the carb floatbowl for shipping so it does not ruin the float. It is supposed to dissolve when fuel mixes with it. Many make the mistake of driving the atv once started. This is a mistake. You must let it idle for at least 30min for the gel to dissolve. If you do not do this you will risk the chance of clogging the jets and the initial adjustments will not work and it will not run right untill all the gel is gone. Most of the time these will start with the movement of the choke then you can lightly feather the throttle to keep it running. If you can reach the idle screw you can turn it up till you dont have to feather the throttle. After about 30 min you can make the final adjustments. CHANGE THE OIL BEFORE YOU RIDE!!! These come with a cheap shipping oil and must be changed or engine damage will occure. It is best to use an oil that is classified JASO MA certified made for 4 stroke or motorcycle engines which are made for wet clutch applications. These have no friction modifiers that are bad for clutches. You can even use diesel oil like Rotella-T 15w40. These oils can be found at your local WalMart or autoparts store. Synthetics are fine as long as it has the same classifications listed above.
The idle screw is the screw on the carb with a SPRING around it. The air/fuel screw is the flathead screw usually before the idle screw closest to the air filter. Some newer carbs have the a/f screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Here are some basic adjustments to get it started and to tune it once broke in.
The mixture screw had been set-up at the factory before shipment and should not have to be reset. Only a small adjustment may be needed due to climate and elevation. If necessary, refer to the adjustment as below:
1. Make sure the air cleaner is clean.
2. make sure the choke lever is OFF while running.
3. Warm the engine up for 3-5 minutes.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until fully closed,
then turn the mixture screw 2 full turns out.
5. Adjust the idling screw until the engine idles EASILY.
6. Turn the mixture screw slightly clockwise and
counterclockwise until the highest engine REVs is obtained.
7. Adjust the idling screw again until the engine idles
EASILY.
8. Repeat step 6 & 7 till you get the best
performance...
*ENGINE IDLES EASILY means:
The engine idling screw must be set correctly to get a
slowest engine idle(1500 rpm - 1600 rpm), but does not
cut out if you press the accelerator quickly.
Cold weather starting will need an additional adjustment to help aid the starting process.
Most of the manual choke carbs have an adjustable needle inside the carb. Lowering the clip (raising the needle) you will be able to open the throttle and get more fuel into the intake quicker. This helps in the cold weather because the colder the weather the leaner the mixture is. You want richer in the colder weather.
1- Unscrew and pull the top of the carb off with the cable and there will be a slide with the needle in the center. (Notice the way the carb slide came out) In step #6 it must go back in the same way it came out.
2- Disconnect the cable through a small slot in the side of the slide.
3- Now you can take the needle out from the slide.
4- The needle will have a very small e clip in a slot on the needle. The needle will have 5 slots. Lowering the clip is richer the and raising the clip will lean it out.
5- Put the clip on the lowest setting for cold weather. DO NOT DROP THE CLIP! They are very small and hard to find.
6- Reverse the process with installing the needle back into the slide, installing the cable, slide the slide back into the carb and screw the cap tight. Remember in step #1 how the slide came out. It MUST go back in the same way.
7- Now make any adjustments as stated above in the carb tuning.
WARNING!!!WARNING!!WARNING!!!
Remember in step #1 and step #6 I said the slide must go back in the same way it came out? The slide will go in 2 ways. ONLY 1 way is the right way. If the slide is not put in the same way, upon start the quad will take off at full throttle. Make sure when you go to start the quad you have a hand on the kill tether or switch this way if it does take off you can dissable it. If this happens the slide was put back in 180 degrees out. This is very important for the safety of you and anyone standing in front of or around the quad.
These steps will work on 99% of these atv's. They are very hard to get running and people get upset when they turn the key and it does not run. Dont forget these are not set up at a dealer like the name brands so the most basic adjustments are done from the factory. These are built in china and the temps are hot so thats how the adjustments are done. As we all know in America the temps vary and these are not set at all for cold temps.
In some cases you will have tuned the quad and it runs very well but one day it will not idle or has poor performance. Most times it is because the carb has sucked in some debris from the tank. You will have to dissasemble the carb and clean out the pilot and main jet. Make sure you have a good inline fuel filter. This will help prevent this failure.
Hopefully this helps everyone with these concerns. These really do run good once tuned properly and with proper maintenance they will last a long time. And if you have any questions PM me and I will try to help as best as I can. Also once the temps start to get hot you may need to raise the clip for the warmer temps.
Good Luck!
2many
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thanks smb05
I was going to add the carb circuits but did not want to be too difficult for the average person so I did not include it. In one of the sentences that I wrote I meant to say lower the clip NOT lower the needle. Ok so heres the beginners guide to jetting and if you have any driveability problems this can help find your problem.
Pilot circuit; 0 to 1/4 throttle
Start by bringing the engine up to operating temperature. Open the throttle slightly. Does the engine pick up speed smoothly? If it doesn't, the fuel-mixture screw may be out of adjustment or the pilot jet may be either too small or too large. To determine the pilot screw setting, adjust the idle-speed screw so that the engine is idling slightly fast, somewhere between 10 and 20 percent above the recommended idle speed. Using either the manufacturer's or the jet kit's recommended pilot screw setting as a starting point, turn the fuel screw left or right between 1/4 and 1/2 of a turn. Select the screw position where the engine speed increase is the greatest. Readjust the idle speed to the correct level.
Next, take the bike for a ride, preferably on a relatively quiet, straight section of road. Using your throttle index, run the bike at 1/4 throttle. If the pilot jetting is correct, the engine should run smoothly, and it should be easy to maintain a constant speed without varying the throttle position. If the bike surges or hunts, the pilot jet is probably too small (lean). Other indications that the pilot circuit is lean are popping or spitting through the carburetor when the throttle is opened and popping or backfiring through the exhaust when the throttle is shut. If the pilot circuit is rich, the engine will have a rough idle or may not return to idle without "blipping" the throttle. You may also notice a distinct smell of raw fuel and some eye irritation from the exhaust.
Low- to high-speed transition; 1/4 to 3/8 throttle
Although the throttle cutaway plays a significant role between 1/4 and 3/8 throttle, it is seldom changed when rejetting a streetbike, particularly a cruiser. For that reason I'll gloss over it. Basically the only time the cutaway needs changing is when the transition from the low-speed fuel circuit (pilot jet) to the high-speed circuit (needle, needle jet and main jet) gets seriously out of whack.
Medium throttle opening; 1/4 to 3/4 throttle
The fuel delivery at this stage is controlled by the jet needle and the needle jet. At one time all carburetors came with adjustable jet needles. Once the smog Nazis got involved, fixed-position needles became the standard. Jet kits will usually include new needles that can be raised (to richen mixture) or lowered (to make it leaner) to suit or, less often, shims to change the height of your stock needles.
To evaluate the needle/needle-jet performance, run the motorcycle in second or third gear. Roll the throttle on from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle only. The engine should accelerate cleanly without sputtering or bogging. If so, you're all done with the midrange; if it doesn't, you'll need to do some experimenting to determine if the needle position is too rich or too lean. Assuming you've installed adjustable needles from the kit, begin your experiments by trying some alternative needle-clip positions, perhaps a step richer to begin with. If that makes the situation worse, try a step leaner. If the jetting is stock and problems crop up, it's time to order the appropriate jet kit.
Top end; 3/4 to wide-open
Main jets (bottom) may be exchanged for larger or smaller size to make the mixture richer (a greater amount of fuel mixed with the incoming air)) or leaner (less fuel) at full throttle.
At this stage of the game, the majority of the fuel flow is controlled by the main jet (remember some fuel is still flowing through the pilot jet). The time-honored method of determining main-jet size is via a plug chop. If you've never done one, a plug chop is pretty simple. Start with new spark plugs. Run the bike flat out (full throttle), in as high a gear as possible, for eight to 10 seconds (don't hold the bike at the rev limiter, as it'll give you a false reading). Without cutting the throttle or slowing down, simultaneously pull in the clutch and hit the kill switch. Coast the bike to a stop and remove the plug(s). The plug insulator should be tan to grayish-white. A white plug indicates a lean mixture; a dark gray or black one means it's rich. You then select the main-jet size accordingly.
Is It Lean or Rich?
One of the reasons I'm so stoked about jet kits is because they remove 95 percent of the guesswork. Be that as it may, even the best kits require some fine-tuning. Essentially a jetting problem can always be reduced to one of two choices: Is it lean or is it rich?
To determine if the bike is lean (to little fuel for the amount of air reaching the engine through the carburetor) at any given throttle opening, partially cover the air-filter intake with a piece of duct tape; if the carburetion improves, it's running lean. If you suspect the bike is running rich (too much fuel in the air-fuel mixture)), remove the airbox top or the air cleaner element; if the changes are for the better, the bike was running too rich.
If your bike is equipped with a manual fuel shut-off, take the bike for a ride with the fuel turned off. If it runs worse as the float bowl drains, it's lean. If it gets better, it's rich.
Troubleshooting
A lean condition is the end result of too little fuel and too much air. Slightly lean conditions create drivability problems. Worst-case scenario: Lean conditions can and do destroy engines. Holes in the pistons, burnt valves and trashed main bearings are the direct result of lean mixtures.
Rich mixtures are the end result of too much fuel and too little air. Rich mixtures waste fuel, contribute to carbon buildup and pollute the air.
Typical Lean Conditions:
- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.
- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)
- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.
- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.
- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.
- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.
- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.
Typical Rich Conditions
- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.
- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.
- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.
- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.
- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.
- Poor fuel economy.
- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the ambient temperature rises.
- Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Hence the reason to raise the needle. I am a mechanic and understand how upset people get when something is not right with the vehicle they have. Most can not do any work themselves anymore because things look so much more complicated then they really are. Thats why I try to help any way I can and I like doing it. If I help 1 person in a day then I feel good. I dont know everything and also learn new things every day. Thats what makes it challenging for me.
When I found out that a member Bruinrider was having problems with her 2 Bajas and saw she lives near me I said I would help. Once I got both tuned and running, the smile on her face was worth a thousand words. Let alone the smile on her kids faces on Christmas morning. It is well worth my time knowing I just made some kids day.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Well as for the name my wife gave it to me. I am a mechanic for Toyota and at one time I had 4 Toyota trucks that I play with off road. Then with the boat, atv's, rc cars etc.. my wife said I have 2 many toys. So thats where the name is from.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Seadawg,
Thanks. I try to help as much as I can. I may not always be right but in most cases I am in the ball park. When I get something I like to examin it, take it apart to see how it works, how it is put together and how I could make it better. I may not be able to translate all my findings here for most to understand so I try to keep it simple. I think of this as a hobby. I have not been around lately because I have a new toy for myself but I try to check in and see whats new. If anyone needs help at this point I think there is enough information on this site to help anyone in need but to anyone that needs a more direct answer dont be afraid to PM me. I do check my PM's every day. Again thanks seadawg.
Posted by: 2manytoys
SMB thanks. I am starting to see alot of carb questions. I guess because of all the new ones being bought and colder weather.
Posted by: 2manytoys
The needle is inside the carb slide. So when you remove the slide then disconnect the cable there is a retainer clip that holds the needle into the slide. Once you remove the retainer clip the needle will come out. On the needle there are 5-6 slots on the clip. The E- clip will go to the lower slot for colder weather and middle to upper for hot weather. Just make sure when you put the needle back in that you put the retainer clip on the right way or you will not be able to get the cable back into the slide. Also make sure when youinstall the slide back into the carb that it is installed right or when you go to start it the quad will take off because it will be in a full throttle position. The slide can be installed 2 ways. The slot that the cable goes into always goes opposite of the idle screw.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Bump!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Just like GOD said it is just for shipping purposes. It helps from keeping the float from bouncing around durring shipping. If you let the quad idle for the 30min this should have dissolved all teh gel pac and you can also do your tuning in this time. Its when people just add gas and go is when the jets suck up too much of the gel and gets clogged. I am not sure if newer quads have the gel in them anymore. It has been a while since I have bought one. I have read about carbs being bad from shipping. Floats cracked and out of adjustment so this would make me think most dont have the pacs in them anymore. If you let it run for the 30 min this will take care of the ones that do have the pacs then you can do the rest of break in period after.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Sounds like the dealer does not know what they are talking about. Usually the gel will dissolve even if the jets are clogged but it does take a while and makes tuning the carb impossible until it is dissolved. I think that anyone that can turn a screw driver can tune the carb themselves. One thing about these is that they are very cold natured. This is where you have to adjust the clip on the needle for colder weather. This helps out greatly. Do you have a manual or automatic choke on your quad?
Posted by: 2manytoys
They do run these a little on the lean side for emissions but not so lean to ruin the motor. You can richen certain circuits of the carb but once at wide open throttle the needle does nothing. The needle will affect idle to about 3/4 throttle. You can move the clip down to richen it up a little and most riding is done at about 1/2 throttle or lower. You will get better performance to a point by running slightly on the lean side but I dont think you will really notice it on these quads much. Most of my carb tuning tips is for new quads that have not been tuned yet or problem starting quads expecially in cold weather. If your quads are running good then dont fix it if its not broke. I do however suggest puting better air filters on them like K&N uni filters. The OEM filters are junk. By replacing the filters these little motors will run forever.
I have had good luck with teh stock plugs adn have owned over a dozen of these quads. Not one have I had to replace the plug. Will it run better with a name brand plug? Maybe! Or is it just a precaution knowing you have a good plug in the quad. If it starts to run bad or have hard times starting then the plug would be the first thing to look at. Then carb tuning.
Posted by: 2manytoys
ragnoinsc,
You dont have to take the carb off the quad to adjust the clip. Its just a matter of unscrewing the carb cap where the throttle cable goes into the carb. Pull out the carb slide that is attached to the throttle cable. You will then see the needle in the center of the slide. You now have to squeeze the spring up twards the cap and slide the cable out from the slide. Once slide is apart from the cable you then just push on the tip of the needle. It will slide up along witht the retainer that holds the needle ito the slide. Make sure you pay attension on how everything comes apart and how everything is positioned. Once you have the needle out then look at the e clip on the needle. There are 5-6 slots on the needle. The clip is usually on the middle slot from factory. You want to move the clip down about 2 notches for cold weather. Just put the open part of the clip on a hard surface and lightly press down on teh needle. The clip will come off. Set the clip on the lower notch and press firmly for it to clip back in. Then you will have to put it together opposite it came apart.
BE VERY CAREFUL on how the carb slide goes back into the carb. There is 2 ways it will go back in. Only one way is the right way. The other way the quad will tkae off at full throttle. Just remember how the slide came out and you will be fine. This is not hard at all. It usually takes me about 2 min to do it. It may take you about 10 the first time but once you have done it, it will be easy after that.
Posted by: 2manytoys
I leave mine all year but you may have to adjust it again. You are at a different elevation so it may or may not run rich in the warmer temps.
Posted by: 2manytoys
OK good. Now what you did by adjusting the needle was richening up the idle circuit. This will let more fuel into the carb with the throttle closed at idle and in a sence will help the choke work better and even sometimes you will not need the choke at all. What the choke does is closes off some of the air and letting more pure fuel into the carb. There is no damage that will occure by leaving this or adjusting this. Thats why it is adjustable. In the warmer temps the worst thing is a fouled plug. In the colder temps if it is run too lean it can have a hard start and even burn a piston in worse case. By adjusting the needle up you eliminated the lean start condition that you had.
When the choke is off it is open. Choke is on it is closed. Now that you adjusted the needle the choke can stay open and in really cold temps partially closed. It will make the choke more sensitive.
How the needle works is when the throttle is fully closed the needle sits in a needle jet. As throttle is pressed the tapered needle raises out of the jet thus giving more fuel. Kinda like a valve. The more you open it the more fuel you get. The needle only works up to 3/4 throttle then the main jet kicks in. Once you let off the throttle the needle goes back down into the needle jet and closes the fuel supply to the intake. At idle the needle is partially opened. All you did was open it more to supply more fuel durring idle and startup to compinsate for the colder leaner weather. You can google on how carbs work to get an exact explination on what does what in the carb. You have a pilot jet, needle jet, main jet, idle screw and air mixture screw. All do different things at different throttle positions. If one is out of tune it will not run right.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Yes a new battery is always good idea. You can get them at walmart, advance or pep boys. You will want a 4lbs battery. A good thing to do is keep it on a battery tender when not in use then you know you will have full charge every time you start.
Posted by: 2manytoys
BUMP!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Scott73,
Have you adjusted the idle and or air mixture screw? You may also need to adjust the needle. The choke works on heat but that does not always mean the bike will run once warmed up. It really sounds like the needle adjustment. What temps are you at and what adjustments have you made?
Stewart,
Have you checked your plug color at all. If it is black then yes it is running rich. I would not worry about it unless it does not run good. Usually they run these on the lean side so they pass california emissions easier.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Some of these newer quads have carbs on them that were not used when I wrote this post. The tuning is the same procedure but the airscrew is on the float bowl. I know they can be hard to get to. But as a rule of thumb a starting point is usuallt 1-1.5 turns out then you go from there.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thanks!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thanks Hoyt!
I think the biggest thing people do is too much of an adjustment when actually its more like a hair that need to be done.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Sounds like the plug. Get a new name brand plug. It may also be a little rich but try the plug first.
Posted by: 2manytoys
That was going to be my next guess. There is alot of junk in these tanks that ruin filters but at least it had a filter. Like you said trial and error is the biggy with these quads but once all teh bugs are worked out they are great.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Khealy,
It sounds like you put the slide in 180 degrees out. It can go in 2 ways but only one is the right way. If it idled wayy high its in backwards or something with the cable.
Posted by: 2manytoys
In the top of the carb where the cable goes into. There is a carb slide that the cable is attatched to. You have to pull this out to take the carb off the bike unless you kept it attached. The slide is a round cylinder about 1.5 inches in length. There is a needle in the middle of the slide also. If the slide does not go back into the carb right it will be wide open.
Thanks about the truck. I love it. Its kinda rare to find a f150 short bed with the bigger 5.8l motor. Most have a 5.0. It sits in the garage and does not see snow or rain. I may drive it about 3-4 times a month. I have other vehicles so I can keep this one mint.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Good deal. Now just follow my carb tips and it will get you moving. Good luck. Anything else dont hesitate to ask.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thanks. Dont ask how I know. Lets just say when it happens to an automatic they are really hard to catch!!!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Some details have been revised to help aid in other issues that happens with the carb. Also some oil recommendations.
Posted by: 2manytoys
You can use synthetics as long as its made for 4 stroke/motorcycle engines. These will be classified as JASO MA certified. Regular automotive oil is not JASO MA certified. You can also use Diesel oil like Rotella T 15w40.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Bump!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thats great to know but holy crap $70 for a jet kit?
Posted by: 2manytoys
Thank you very much. Im glad to help wherever I can. Its not often someone will say thanks so it makes me feel good that I can help. Anything else dont hesitate to ask.
Posted by: 2manytoys
Good deal!
Posted by: 2manytoys
Bump!
Posted by: Scootergptx
Quote
Originally posted by: ragnoinsc
so does anybody have any manuals on these? I am not sure if it is needed but if I am going to try to take the carb out and adjust this needle, I would like something to go by since this is my first go at it. If anybody does, maybe I could get a page or two emailed to me?
I have a manual for a Kymco Mongoose 250. PM me with your email and I can send the pages this evening.
Posted by: Scootergptx
Doubt it's the same carb. Wasn't sure what you had.
If you want to send a PM to someone, just click on the picture of the lock in their reply.
Posted by: mywifesquad
Quote
Originally posted by: 2manytoys
Hence the reason to raise the needle. I am a mechanic and understand how upset people get when something is not right with the vehicle they have. Most can not do any work themselves anymore because things look so much more complicated then they really are. Thats why I try to help any way I can and I like doing it. If I help 1 person in a day then I feel good. I dont know everything and also learn new things every day. Thats what makes it challenging for me.
When I found out that a member Bruinrider was having problems with her 2 Bajas and saw she lives near me I said I would help. Once I got both tuned and running, the smile on her face was worth a thousand words. Let alone the smile on her kids faces on Christmas morning. It is well worth my time knowing I just made some kids day.
You are a asset to this forum 2manytoys. Lots of great advice, stated simply.
Not sure if I agree with your nickname though, Just how many is to many?
Posted by: mywifesquad
Quote
Originally posted by: 2manytoys
Well as for the name my wife gave it to me. I am a mechanic for Toyota and at one time I had 4 Toyota trucks that I play with off road. Then with the boat, atv's, rc cars etc.. my wife said I have 2 many toys. So thats where the name is from.
I still dont think you can have to many. Not enough room maybe...........................
Posted by: chubbysdad
Your wrote.. Lowering the needle will richen the idle circuit and raising the clip will lean it out. Thats the same thing. I think you miss wrote that. lol
Posted by: Sport400inOH
The gel pack in the float bowl mentioned in the first or second post on this topic - should it simply be removed before gas is first added? Or does it serve some break-in purpose? Will letting a brand new engine idle for 30 minutes hurt anything?
I have always found the instructions to say that varying amounts of light to medium throttle are the most appropriate during break-in.
Posted by: Sport400inOH
Ok, removed the carb prior to adding fuel in the Sunl 90 and there was no gel pack. Everything looked clean and shiny new (as shiny as cast aluminum can look). I took the advice in the previous posts and dropped the clip to the bottom position (It is 30 degrees here).
Got her back together, added gas and started her up for the first time. After some idle speed adjustment, I had her purring like a kitten.
Notes to other chinese quad noobies:
1) Be sure stop switch is set to "run"! Unlike my Polaris, the Sunl will crank with the engine stop switch in the stop position, but will not start. Same goes for the Remote kill - be sure to hit the unlock button.
2) The Sunl 90 is not real big on the choke. After the first 30 seconds or so (Even at 30 degrees F), it preferred the choke to be off.
Posted by: brandy420
2manytoys!!! Thanks for the article you wrote. This was very helpful to me. I just bought a
Kimco MXU 300 this past weekend. I bought it right off the floor so it had zero miles on it. I noticed over the weekend it was hard to start but after 2 min or so it ran fine. Then I read
your article so today I fast idled it 30 min. will see tomorrow how it works out. BTW any
suggestions on what type of oil to use when I change it.Should I go synthetic ? I bought this for my wife . I have an Bomb. Max 400 but after riding this Kimco I think it's awesome.Looks like a well put together machine with alot of detail. Thanks again. Steve
Posted by: smb05
Quote
Originally posted by: geo: the more common and effective, albeit complicated, cold weather adjustment is to increase the size of the main jet. 2-cycles seem to be more sensitive than thumpers.
Increasing the main will not help much for cold weather starts or even idle.
Carburetor Circuits
Air Screw = Idle to 1/8 Throttle
The Pilot (Slow Jet) = 1/8 to 1/4 Throttle
The slide valve = 1/8 to 1/2 Throttle
Jet needle = 1/4 to 3/4 Throttle
Main Jet = 3/4 to Full Throttle
The pilot jet would be the jet to increase not the main.
2manytoys is correct by making the jet needle richer (by lowering the sir clip on the needle, raising the needle out of the venturi)will increase fuel delivery. The quads / bikes will start easier in cold weather. This is a lot easier than trying to find the correct pilot jet when you don't have the time. I think 2manytoys is trying not to get too technical on jetting principles. They are quick fixes to get the quads started so the kids can get to riding their quads / bikes.
2manytoys:
Good write up. It's too bad you can't make the post a sticky so it always stays on the first page.
Posted by: smb05
bump
Posted by: smb05
Your welcome.
This thread has helped many people. It is also much easier to find this "how to" if it's at the top.
SB.
Posted by: reconner
i'm slowly but surely learning.....
the kids' kazuma falcon 110 was having trouble idling....stalling, running real slow, etc.
i tried the carb adjustment outlined here (very helpful, btw), but still didn't fix the issue. so, i drained the gas and refilled with fresh and replaced the spark plug, all to no avail.
then my 11 yr old reminded me that we need three things for the engine to run, fuel, spark...and AIR. checked the air filter and of course, it was frozen, and i then remembered my son making HUGE splashes when riding through streams on our land!!!!!
Posted by: rodneygt
Bump (as a lot of people are getting these for the first time and need the info).
Posted by: onabudget
OK I need some help from Manny and Others,
On my sons's Kazuma 50, he was running rich /poor power and after the above carb adjustment it was still a tad rich (I could see the fumes in the garage). Also it would cut out if the throttle was snapped open.
I did a valve adjustment as per the directions of John at Raceway. That was the easy part. I went back to the carb and adjusted as per 2manys tips. Now the idle is good and the quad feels like its power is back but its still rich and it still cuts out when snapping the throttle. It does however run great when you ease into it.
Posted by: lotus4s
Thanks 2many,
I'm sure that will come in handy....
Jim
Posted by: SEADAWG
2manytoys,
Just want you to know you are the most helpful and insightful person on these forum. Thanks for the advice and help. SEADAWG
Posted by: ErikTheRed
Where do you guys get jet kits for these? I think my daughters quad runs alittle lean, Id like to play alittle with the jetting to richen it up. It spits a pops some at full throttle, it just started doing this when I replaced the stock air filter with a UNI. It seems to have better initial throttle response now, but at WOT throttle it pops just a bit.
Posted by: jnt3000
Pictures of how to adjust needle
Posted by: hoytultratec
Quote
Originally posted by: 2or4wheels
Ahhh....I get it....the Bump is to bring the topic back to the top of the forum..... good show.
-d3
Well done on the write up; 2MT. You, Hoyt, smb and the dawg need to move to Texas, and we can hang out together and fix stuff.
u should move to wisconsin , to hot in texas, i love wisconsin weather, hunting fishing lake michigan and ice fishing, its amazing what you can learn from these guys here if you read enough and have a little wrenching ability and some tools of course, sometimes i actually like to work on these quads, gives me something else to do.
Posted by: hoytultratec
32 degrees cloudy
Posted by: hoytultratec
that guide is awsome, even after i did it and rode it around it would do something a little different after attempting to adjust it ???how many times i finally got it right this is on a redcat 150 it runs perfect now it would fire and idle right up in subzero temps here in wisconsin, it just takes a bit of messing around but eventually you can get it just right, alot of times its just a quarter turn to make all the difference in the world.
later hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
Quote
Originally posted by: Khealy007
I'm so retarded. I can not figure this B/S out. I don't kow whether to put a bullet in me or in the machine. Does anyone know of anyone/anybody in Indianapolis area I can take this thing to???? Please help me. Thanks.
explain what the quad is doing, so we can help.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
Quote
Originally posted by: Khealy007
I've done the carb adjustments the best I can (that freaking mixture screw is hard to get at). Now, I believe there is a kink in the Choke cable. Atleast it looks like there's a slight bend in it (I don't know if that has anything to do with it). I took the air filter off and it looks real restrictive (I don't know how much that has to do with it). Now it's idling really hard and fast and it sounds a little like it's wanting to back fire. If i shut the choke it cuts off. I've called a few quad dealers around here and most of them told me to "F" off. I did find a guy who owns a Polaris delarship just out side of town who said he could squeeze me in in a week or two for $65 an hour. After that, I'm stumped. I've tried to find info on the internet but I'm tired of messing with this thing. I'm thinking of just financing a new quad.
to me it still sounds like a carb adjustmentif you follow the guide by tomanytoys its a starting place you will still need to adjust a little more but not all that much sometimes alot of people overadjust to much...
did you clean the carb? you could have crap in it.
did you replace the fuel filter there cheap?
are you possible sucking some air at the intake ( where the carb bolts up) ?
ive been thru the same thing but once i got it.. it runs great.
what quad is it? 150 or 250 cc
the air cleaners they come with suck but...they will still run good with the crappy ones.
you can replace them with unifilter and then you will probably need to rejet the carb.
keep us posted we can help you. there is alot of trial and air like posted before but some here have seen it all you will get it going. and then you can finance a new one dont give up.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
khealy007 is having the problems, mine are running great. just need to pull a link out of the chain and all is good.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
no problem, i really got them running good it took some tinkering but got them running good not bad little machines for the money my kid really has enjoyed them.
for me i will stick to my polaris.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
alright first thing i would do is.
take carb apart carefully and clean out with gumout blow out the jets they will run like crap with a tiny bit of junk in it.
do not touch any of adjusting screws yet. put it back together.
make sure air cleaner is clean.
put a new ngk plug in it.
start it up if it idles now you need to mess with the carb tuning.
this is where i would start its not difficult to do this just take your time. and make sure you have good not old gas in it.
keep us posted
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
so its cleaned and its running, what does idle in the red mean? idle real high, refer to the tune guide and try tuning it again.
check out www.sparkplugs.com for cross reference im not sure what plug that gets.
im sure tomanytoys will help you out also he has way more knowledge than me.
it still sounde like the carb is just out of adjustment.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
tomanytoys is talking about where the throttle cable screw into the top of the carb unscrew it and turn it 180 degrees so the slide goes down all the way...i never thought of that wasnt sure what carb was on it, give it a try.
remove the whole slide out of the carb and turn it 180 degrees and slide it back in and screw the top of the carb back on.
hope you understand this im terrible at explaining things i wouldnt make a good teacher thats for sure.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
good catch 2manytoys.
hoyt
Posted by: hoytultratec
glad to hear you got it, if you have any other problems let us know werehear to help,god knows i need help.
as far as the tools, check auto parts stores they have specialty tools and i think i saw someone on here say they found a tool like you need made by snap on tools, tomanytoys will know were to get that too probably.
good luck
hoyt
Posted by: retiredsfl
I haven't joined any threads in the last couple of months as everything has been going fine. Well not it's not & I am stumped. Last month the 90cc Kazuma I got for grand daughter started to run bad & was "popping." I pulled plug, it was fine. Pulled off seat to clean air cleaner ( it was a little dirty) when I noticed there was only one bolt holding the carb to manifold. Got a new bolt , put back together & it ran. Well, with the holidays the atv didn't get used & when she tried to use it yesterday, it only ran a short while, (maybe 10 minutes) & at idle would load up on gas. I have not been able to adjust the carb, nothing changes when I screw in or out the mixture or the speed. I have cleaned the air cleaner, pulled both idle screws completely out & shot carb cleaner in their holes, replaced them & it still acts the same. It will start up & idles very rough. As soon as throttle is open, it quits. I drained all the gas & started out with fresh. I also drained the carb bowl. It seems to "bang"when idling. Could it be a valve adjustment? I have never adj valves.
Posted by: godIlove2ride
bumpy, bumpy
Posted by: godIlove2ride
If you have not put any fuel in the quad yet, I would remove that gel pac. It does nothing for break in, it is just a shipping pac. They tell you that it will dissolve in the carb when you run fuel through it, but I have heard more and more of these things clogging the jets. I would just remove it if you haven't run fuel through yet.
Posted by: godIlove2ride
bump
Posted by: godIlove2ride
I too have had good luck with the stock plugs in my Chinese quads but I changed them to NGKs just for the peace of mind. I have gotten in the habit of upgrading certain things on my Chinese bikes that I felt I wouldn't trust for the long haul. Talked to John at Raceway the other day and he is working on stocking American made bearings from now on as well. I might change all of my bearings out just for the peace of mind on that too.
Posted by: godIlove2ride
I got my jets from here
JETS R US
Posted by: godIlove2ride
bump
Posted by: godIlove2ride
bump
Posted by: godIlove2ride
bump
Posted by: dealseaker
just moving it to the top, great writeup.
Posted by: ftm400
bump
Posted by: Khealy007
I'm so retarded. I can not figure this B/S out. I don't kow whether to put a bullet in me or in the machine. Does anyone know of anyone/anybody in Indianapolis area I can take this thing to???? Please help me. Thanks.
Posted by: Khealy007
I've done the carb adjustments the best I can (that freaking mixture screw is hard to get at). Now, I believe there is a kink in the Choke cable. Atleast it looks like there's a slight bend in it (I don't know if that has anything to do with it). I took the air filter off and it looks real restrictive (I don't know how much that has to do with it). Now it's idling really hard and fast and it sounds a little like it's wanting to back fire. If i shut the choke it cuts off. I've called a few quad dealers around here and most of them told me to "F" off. I did find a guy who owns a Polaris delarship just out side of town who said he could squeeze me in in a week or two for $65 an hour. After that, I'm stumped. I've tried to find info on the internet but I'm tired of messing with this thing. I'm thinking of just financing a new quad.
Posted by: Khealy007
It's a 250CC Komoto. All that jetting and stuff you were talking about I've never done before. I got this for free and I would like to learn to ride on it. I mean, I can change the oil in my truck. Hell I even did the lift and exhaust myself but I've never messed with a carburetor before. Thanks a ton for all your help. I really appreciate it.
Posted by: Khealy007
CARB - taken apart, cleaned, re assembled and re installed.
Having taken this thing apart and put it back together I can tell you it's a complete and total piece of crap. The carb is missing bolts and the screws were mostly stripped. It was a complete and total biatch to do. Once I got all that done and put fresh gas in it and started it up it idled in the freaking RED. I don't know what else to do. Would changing the spark plug have that much to do with it? I didn't know what the NGK cross reference was so that is the only thing I didn't do. Any ideas of where I can go from here?
Posted by: Khealy007
Slide?? What is that? If you can give me some sort of description I will check it. By the way, I'm jealous of your F150. My bro rolls a jacked 2006 STX but he's in Iraq. Thanks for your help.
Posted by: Khealy007
First I would like to say thank you to you guys for bearing with me. I do not know a ton about ATV engines and this has been a real experience for me. I just went out and checked the slide position and it was incorrect. I set it correctly and the idle is good. I do however need to further adjust the carb for proper idle but I was able to take it for a ride and it was quite fulfilling I will keep you all posted and again I want to say thank you for so patiently walking me through this whole process.
Kevin
Posted by: Khealy007
I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get some better tools to adjust the mixture screw on the carburetor. I don't have anything that will reach it and my hands are too big. Any ideas? Also, is it a good idea to put synthetic oil in these things?
Posted by: Khealy007
Well fellas I finally got to take that sum biatch out for a sping today. I ran it for about 45 minutes around my neighborhood. It did quite well. It isn't as powerful as I would like but it can carry my big ass Thanks again for being so patient and walking me through those carburetor adjustment steps. I feel a sense of pride, like most men feel after they do manly things. I've been spending too much time doing stuff with my wife.
THANKS AGAIN I SERIOUSLY DO HAVE A SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT!!!!!
Also, I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get some flex tools, or something that will fit in those tight places a little better than my chubby knuckles whith a plier. My wife's hands fit but she's too weak. If you have any suggestions let me know.
Posted by: setters
Does raceway sell jet kits? i called today and talked to john about what jets i need in my jm 125 since i put a k&n filter on and he said they would have to take a carb apart to see? didnt sound like he was to sure.
Posted by: setters
So what do you do,send them your carb?Does it make more sense to up grade to the mikuni 26mm carb for 75 bucks?Will this do the same?
Posted by: 2or4wheels
Ahhh....I get it....the Bump is to bring the topic back to the top of the forum..... good show.
-d3
Well done on the write up; 2MT. You, Hoyt, smb and the dawg need to move to Texas, and we can hang out together and fix stuff.
Posted by: 2or4wheels
Wisconsin? No Thank You. I was there once, it was nice enough....
It's 70 degrees here, sunny and clear, how about there? More importantly>>>>>TX has 500,000 acres of prime riding spots!!!!
We ride (and play golf) all year...but thanks for the offer!!!BR>
-d3
Posted by: litig8r187
How does the "E-clip", spring, slide and needle jet go together (Keihin 19 mm)? Specifically, how does the E-clip work? When I took it apart, it kinda fell "sprung apart". I know how the needle jet sets in the slide, the throttle cable connects to the slide through the spring. Does the "e-clip" set on top of the needle jet below the spring? I can't find a diagram anywhere (only some exploded views that are not particularly clear).
Posted by: litig8r187
Thanks, I think I got it right but not before experiencing the full throttle thing first hand. I never thought about what happens when you squat next to the ride and start an auto clutch in gear with a throttle stuck wide open. It is funny in retrospect. As I noted in another thread, I looked like a steer roper trying to throw the steer to the ground. The bruises will heal soon!!
Posted by: trumptman
I've got a question. I live in California, own a couple of 70cc chinese quads and according to the plug color, they are still running a bit too lean. Everything I have read states that most of these quads come tuned too lean in order to pass emissions.
Can I richen it up by using the needle process outlined here? Would I get any more power out of them if they are indeed running too lean? They both currently run and idle just fine, but I know running too lean isn't good for the long term. Also they appear to be doing well with the stock plugs but plenty of folks in this forum have mentioned tossing them and getting a "real" plug. What is the merit to such comments? I've had really good luck with these quads so far but wouldn't mind turning a good buy into a downright extraordinary buy.
Nick
Posted by: outlaw17ca
I had a lot of trouble starting mine cold as well and I did the adjustment placing the clip on the last position on the rod for cold starts and it starts great now. Thanks again for all the help.
Posted by: check
Does anyone know how to boost the power on an '06 Arctic Cat DVX50, with carb mods?
I already took the variator restrictor off, and I am trying (unsuccessfully) to figure out how to mod the CDI box (for high end speed, since there seems to be an electronic rev limiter on it), but I also thought I could mod the barb to enhance low end power as well.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. The carb is a Keihin PTE.
Posted by: stewartlittle
I also have question,about a RedCat 110.It does run good,but it smells alittle strong of gas.Dont smell like fumes,but more like raw gas out of tail pipe.
Is this because the carb. needs some fine tuning?
Also,will it harm the engines to run them too lean? Or is that just for two strokes?
Posted by: stewartlittle
I have checked it once,a few weeks ago and it looked whitish on the tip,maybe I'll look again today when I get home.But the thing is only 2 months old,I dont think any thing is bad wrong,I just thought the smell of gas was odd.
Posted by: BigDaddyTX
Bumpity Bump!
Posted by: ragnoinsc
2manytoys,
I have just purchased a Redcat MPX90U in December. At the end of January, I had to take it back to the distributor becasue it was alomost impossible to start. I live in the upstate of SC so the weather is cold but not freezing. It was so hard to start the I would kill the battery trying to do it. So the dealer said it was becasue the jets in the carb were clogged. I had to pay $40. They said it was my fault and it must have come from my gas can. After reading your post, I'm doubting that it was my fault. I have tried to contact Redcat directly but no luck. I get put on hold for 15 minutes every time and I frankly don't have that kind of time to waste so I hang up. I am very frustrated with this thing and I appreciate any help you can give me. I have never worked on small engines so I am not sure if this is something I should try or not. Your instructions sound pretty simple but I would not want to try anything and void the warranty or mess the carb up. I would hope the dealer would have known about the gelpac and run the thing before they put it on the showroom floor. But if not, have I messed up by riding it as soon as I started it?
Also, I see another person has posted a similar problem titled "Redcat MPX90" . You might want to help them out also. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Posted by: ragnoinsc
It is a manual choke. It it supposed to sound like it is sucking air when you first start it? Is there any manual or instructions I can get for these in order to work on them?
Posted by: ragnoinsc
so does anybody have any manuals on these? I am not sure if it is needed but if I am going to try to take the carb out and adjust this needle, I would like something to go by since this is my first go at it. If anybody does, maybe I could get a page or two emailed to me?
Posted by: ragnoinsc
Would that really help me on my Redcat MPX90? How do I send you a PM?
Posted by: ragnoinsc
Thanks, sounds like I will try this. Since this is acold weather adjustment, does that mean I have to undo this for warm weather or can I leave it like this year round? I live in northwestern SC so summer temps are 90-100 and winter temps are down to the low 20's sometimes the teens.
Posted by: ragnoinsc
I DID IT!! Adjusted the needle this morning. Took about 30 minutes. The hardest thing was getting enough slack in the cable to work with in the tight space. I choked it and it started up after about 4 or 5 tries. I let it run for about 30 sec. and cut if off. I closed the choke all the way and it started as soon as I hit the start button. What a wonderful feeling! It is about 35 degrees in my basement. I have more questions though.
By adjusting this, is it suppose to make the choke not as useful or effective?
Is it okay to always leave the choke closed and never have to use it?
Can you explain how adjusting this needle actually helps?
By adjusting the needle, what did I really change?
If I leave it like this all during hot temps, how will I tell if it is running rich and needs adjusted back?
What long term damage, if any, will it do to leave it like this even if it runs rich?
I hope I am not being a bother. I just like to understand how things work. Thanks so much again for this advice.
Posted by: ragnoinsc
Thanks again. You da man!
I think I will still replace the battery. Dealer load tested it and it was okay but I still have to charge it frequently. I checked the voltage when I rev up the engine and it increases so I know the charging circiut is working. Someone else on here ahd the same problem and a new battery fixed them up.
Posted by: tcf26
Okay I have read through these directions for tuning and the carb on my HI-Bird 200cc has the mixture screw at the front not to the left of the idle screw. It is very hard tog et to since it is tucked behind the starter. I tried the two turns out and adjusting as stated in the instructions, but nothing happened. No change in revs. I am kinda stumped about it. When it was new out of the box the misture screw was only maybe a 1/4 turn out from closed. I put it back and now I am not sure how to turn that screw without removing the exhaust sheilding and the plastics that and the fact the screw didn't seem to do anything. Any ideas on this one? It isn't running badly just wanted to make sure it was tuned properly.
Posted by: scott73
Great topics on carb adjustments. I have a quick question regarding a Dinli 50. The quad will start fine but once the engine warms up and the auto choke turns off, the engine will die. I changed the plug to a NGK, cleaned the air filter, etc but can't get the thing to run longer than the warm up cycle. Any other thoughts? What other information would you need? Do you think there is an issue with the auto choke? Any help would be appreciated.
Posted by: scott73
I have made minor adjustments to the idle as you instructed on your first post. I haven't touched the mixture screw or the needle, yet. I'm out in California and this time of year we're usually in the 50's or low 60's. The quad has been sitting for sometime and prior to that it would run fine but now I can't keep it going.
Posted by: MPK123
2manytoys, this is a good carb setup guide! Thanks
Posted by: Piper77
I recently purchased the Roketa 200cc 4 stroke quad. I had it running well for the last few weeks, with adjustment to the idle screw. It has recently been getting warmer where I am, and now it won't stay up and going. For example I can start it up no problem. Sometimes I do however need to choke it, but it will idle fairly decent. It has had black smoke come out of it and does have an odd smell as well. The thing is, once it is warmed up and I have been riding it for 15 minutes or so, it will just completely bogg down, I then have to put the choke on in an attempt to get back home or close to it. This happens constantly, and I was wondering if this is due to the engine running to rich and what's the best approach to resolving the issue? I am hesitent to open it up and adjust the needle, etc. If I have to, I will do this, but I don't want to do it unless I get an opinion on the matter.
Posted by: Piper77
When I say warm outside temp, it's high 70's to mid 80's.
Posted by: Piper77
Thanks for the tip, the plug was fine. I did figure out how to get the needle set, but in the end, I found that I got a bunk fuel filter.....go figure. I went ahead and put the needle back to the previous adjustment. Fine tuned everything again and it's running fine now. As frustrating as this gets at times, I am actully learning alot from trial and error. Sometimes the problem is a lot simpler then it really is. Thanks again.
Posted by: Piper77
I know I am new to this, but I did check for possible blockage due to air in the lines, and noticed that once the line after the filter ran a bit slow I concluded that could be the problem. Apparently the dealer I got this from felt like giving me a crapped out filter to begin with. I of course "assumed" it had to be a bigger problem then what it really was. I was thinking it was a more problematic scenario, in the end, it cost me just over 2 bucks. I am more then happy with that. As for hoytultratec, try to take some idle out from the idle adjustment, once you have it warmed up. I did the step as you did and set it too high, just take it back a bit and find where it runs nice and smoothe. At least you know it's getting gas and able to run, the adjustments from their should be minor, of course this is just from what I've run into. I would take any adive 2manytoys has to offer. I have been browsing through here and the advice from him is honest and to the best of his knowledge. Good Luck.
Posted by: Piper77
Ah, my bad, I was reading off the quote.
Posted by: Piper77
I agree, they aren't really that bad. Plus I have learned, due to there being no other alternative. You get what you pay for. The machine is a toy for screwing around with and for the "kid",...... I enjoy it to of course. I would love nothing more then to get back to the good toys, but for the money, I can't argue with. Hey, there's always next tax season huh?
Posted by: Piper77
Quote
Originally posted by: hoytultratec
so its cleaned and its running, what does idle in the red mean? idle real high, refer to the tune guide and try tuning it again.
check out www.sparkplugs.com for cross reference im not sure what plug that gets.
im sure tomanytoys will help you out also he has way more knowledge than me.
it still sounde like the carb is just out of adjustment.
hoyt
I believe it was too high, I know that I was stuck in this postion too. I was putting that slide back in backwards. The grooves were 180 degrees off, and when I read that it was one of two ways, I made it into a bigger complex issue while working on it then I thought it was.
Posted by: plugguy
2 manytoys , Excellent write up,This info on Chinese Carb tuning came in REAL Handy.My ATV is running great.I was ready to give up on this ATV.
What would we all do without your knowledge on this subject.
Helmets off to ya,Great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: plugguy
To 2manytoys,You're welcome.This info really did help, Had a great day of riding.ATV did stall out once while riding and would not restart.
Found that the problem was that the main ignition wiring connector was not tightly connected.After i connected them together,The ATV started right up and i've not had a problem since,Knock on Wood.
Once again, Thank You for your help .
Ride On.
Posted by: plugguy
Quote
Originally posted by: plugguy
2 manytoys , Excellent write up,This info on Chinese Carb tuning came in REAL Handy.My ATV is running great.I was ready to give up on this ATV.
What would we all do without your knowledge on this subject.
Helmets off to ya,Great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Bound4Dirt
Jet kits sold here for Chinese Quads.
http://www.skoutracing.com/jetkits.html
Posted by: Bound4Dirt
Supply and demand. Free shipping and all. Not bad. Good reviews on the site.
Posted by: Bound4Dirt
RaceWay knows most are still lean when they come in and a jet kit is the best way to solve it all the around =)
Posted by: Bound4Dirt
Quote
Originally posted by: setters
Does raceway sell jet kits? i called today and talked to john about what jets i need in my jm 125 since i put a k&n filter on and he said they would have to take a carb apart to see? didnt sound like he was to sure.
You need to contact www.SkoutRacing.com. They have been doing that since 2003!
http://www.skoutracing.com/jetkits.html
$69 for how2 cd a kit add $30 and they will do it for you. Also, the UNI filter enables you do go with a higher jet than the K&N. Ask them, they will tell you the same thing.
Posted by: Bound4Dirt
Quote
Originally posted by: setters
So what do you do,send them your carb?Does it make more sense to up grade to the mikuni 26mm carb for 75 bucks?Will this do the same?
No. The Mikuni has a narrow top end and the Japan carb you have has a bigger neck. This is where the "slide" is. You can jet higher with the Japan carb. That's #1. #2, the Mikuni is a 26mm and yours should be a 22mm. We couldn't get it to run with the bigger carb. Try it! Post back. Worse case, you have an extra carb for parts.
As for sending it. Most do, they test it, etc for the extra $30. But you have an option. Call them. Friendly people.
Posted by: DoDo5
2many,
I just ended up on this buy chance and noticed that you really seam to know what you are talking about.
I just got 2 Yamoto 200cc, one is running really good and the other one well not so good. I am not sure if it has anything to do with the carb adjustment, but I will do that anyways.
I but my ATV on a jack and took the rear tires off. I was working on the ATv and got it running in the garage for a while. I adjusted the chain and the clutch. Next thing that I noticed was that when I was putting the ATV in gear, the chain and the rear axle where turning, even if no one was touching the throttle, wetter or not I had the clutch pulled in. At first I taught that I might off tightened the chain to much, after playing with it to loosen it up and braking a chain adjuster, I realized that it had nothing to do with the chain.
What would cause this? Also, is there an easy trick to make sure that the rear axel is parallel to the right one? Since I played with it to fix the chain, I am afraid that it might be slightly out of position.
Thanks in advance.
Dom
Posted by: jrp1340
I have a SUNL ATV mini truck. The gas turned bad. So I drained the tank, added fresh fuel, Took the carb apart and thoroughly cleaned, and replaced the plug. It starts great and idles perfect. But when I accelerate it bogs down. If I hold the throttle open it builds crispness, it just lacks acceleration. Any ideas on whats happening here? I have made several adjustments since then. I first noticed the exaust pipe was heating up red. So adjusted the air/Fuel mixture but nothing has changed. Stumped????????
Posted by:
2manytoys,
This information is great, but I have two Kazuma ATV's that I bought new, and I do not see any way to adjust the needle on either one. The carbs are automatic choke, and the throttle cable attaches to the side of the carb. The carb has a butterfly in it like a car. The needle is vaccuum controlled. I took the assmbly out and there is no e-clip. They have not been right since new, and the dealer went out of business. Please help....
Thanks
