sunl sla90 no spark
#1
sunl sla90 no spark
My name is Matt and I do most mechanical work myself on all vehicles and atvs when I have the time. Electrical stuff kinda blows my mind though. I need help.
The engine cranks but I have no spark at plug
I did the tests that you suggested to securejohn and I didn't get any ac voltage at all no matter the situation. I did the kill switch test and it did not zero, is that correct? What is the difference in the stator and the magneto?
The engine cranks but I have no spark at plug
I did the tests that you suggested to securejohn and I didn't get any ac voltage at all no matter the situation. I did the kill switch test and it did not zero, is that correct? What is the difference in the stator and the magneto?
#2
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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Hi Matt,
It would really help if you not only did all the tests but reported the results as well. This is especially important when electrical stuff is not your forte. Many of the tests reinforce one another (if they're done right) and that is a good piece of info. If they don't reinforce each other then that's a red flag and we can dig in deeper.
For example, you say that you got no AC voltage at all anywhere. But equally important are the resistance measurements to ground on the same wires. You need both to make a good diagnosis. What brand meter were you using? What scale(s) were you on?
On the kill switch test you say "it did not zero". I need more detail. Were you measuring ohms? What scale? When you turn on a kill switch (to the kill position) does it change?
Magneto and Stator are often used interchangeably. One could argue that there is a difference based on points/condensor ignition versus CDI ignition, but so many people have muddled it up that argument has lost a lot of meaning.
It would really help if you not only did all the tests but reported the results as well. This is especially important when electrical stuff is not your forte. Many of the tests reinforce one another (if they're done right) and that is a good piece of info. If they don't reinforce each other then that's a red flag and we can dig in deeper.
For example, you say that you got no AC voltage at all anywhere. But equally important are the resistance measurements to ground on the same wires. You need both to make a good diagnosis. What brand meter were you using? What scale(s) were you on?
On the kill switch test you say "it did not zero". I need more detail. Were you measuring ohms? What scale? When you turn on a kill switch (to the kill position) does it change?
Magneto and Stator are often used interchangeably. One could argue that there is a difference based on points/condensor ignition versus CDI ignition, but so many people have muddled it up that argument has lost a lot of meaning.
My name is Matt and I do most mechanical work myself on all vehicles and atvs when I have the time. Electrical stuff kinda blows my mind though. I need help.
The engine cranks but I have no spark at plug
I did the tests that you suggested to securejohn and I didn't get any ac voltage at all no matter the situation. I did the kill switch test and it did not zero, is that correct? What is the difference in the stator and the magneto?
The engine cranks but I have no spark at plug
I did the tests that you suggested to securejohn and I didn't get any ac voltage at all no matter the situation. I did the kill switch test and it did not zero, is that correct? What is the difference in the stator and the magneto?
#3
using a Cen-Teck digital multimeter- cheap but hopefully good enough.
Kill switch test Method 1 - no spark
Kill switch test Method 2 - run position - meter in 200k ohms setting - infinite
wiring connector test
ac power ignition pin to ground pin - meter 200k position - infinite
timing pin to ground pin - meter in 200 ohms setting - 124.6 ohms
ac ignition power pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200 vac setting(lowest setting) - 0 volts
timing pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200vac - 0.1 volts mostly showing 0.0 volts but would jump to 0.1 some
output side of CDI
Ignition coil pin to ground pin - infinite on all meter settings
CDI plugged in - meter in 200 vac setting - kill switches in run position - ignition coil pin to ground pin - 0 volts
Kill switch test Method 1 - no spark
Kill switch test Method 2 - run position - meter in 200k ohms setting - infinite
wiring connector test
ac power ignition pin to ground pin - meter 200k position - infinite
timing pin to ground pin - meter in 200 ohms setting - 124.6 ohms
ac ignition power pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200 vac setting(lowest setting) - 0 volts
timing pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200vac - 0.1 volts mostly showing 0.0 volts but would jump to 0.1 some
output side of CDI
Ignition coil pin to ground pin - infinite on all meter settings
CDI plugged in - meter in 200 vac setting - kill switches in run position - ignition coil pin to ground pin - 0 volts
#4
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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I have several of those Centech meters. They're crap mostly, but they do work (except when they don't), and its a cheap way to monitor several voltages simultaneously. I bought eight of them and still have 5 that work a year or two later. I have a good meter too for precise measuring, but I can't afford eight of those...
Your AC Ignition power wire power winding is open and produces no voltage. Note the wire color in the harness on that pin. Go down to the stator wires where they emerge from the engine side cover. Find the same color wire there on the wiring harness side. That will be the other end of the wire from the CDI connector.
Now look at the engine wires from the stator and note which wire hooks up to the AC Ignition Power wire in the harness. Unplug it and measure the resistance of that wire to engine ground (engine side wiring). If it is still open your stator is bad. If it isn't your AC Ignition Power wire from the stator to the CDI connector is open.
Your AC Ignition power wire power winding is open and produces no voltage. Note the wire color in the harness on that pin. Go down to the stator wires where they emerge from the engine side cover. Find the same color wire there on the wiring harness side. That will be the other end of the wire from the CDI connector.
Now look at the engine wires from the stator and note which wire hooks up to the AC Ignition Power wire in the harness. Unplug it and measure the resistance of that wire to engine ground (engine side wiring). If it is still open your stator is bad. If it isn't your AC Ignition Power wire from the stator to the CDI connector is open.
using a Cen-Teck digital multimeter- cheap but hopefully good enough.
Kill switch test Method 1 - no spark
Kill switch test Method 2 - run position - meter in 200k ohms setting - infinite
wiring connector test
ac power ignition pin to ground pin - meter 200k position - infinite
timing pin to ground pin - meter in 200 ohms setting - 124.6 ohms
ac ignition power pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200 vac setting(lowest setting) - 0 volts
timing pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200vac - 0.1 volts mostly showing 0.0 volts but would jump to 0.1 some
output side of CDI
Ignition coil pin to ground pin - infinite on all meter settings
CDI plugged in - meter in 200 vac setting - kill switches in run position - ignition coil pin to ground pin - 0 volts
Kill switch test Method 1 - no spark
Kill switch test Method 2 - run position - meter in 200k ohms setting - infinite
wiring connector test
ac power ignition pin to ground pin - meter 200k position - infinite
timing pin to ground pin - meter in 200 ohms setting - 124.6 ohms
ac ignition power pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200 vac setting(lowest setting) - 0 volts
timing pin to ground pin while cranking - meter 200vac - 0.1 volts mostly showing 0.0 volts but would jump to 0.1 some
output side of CDI
Ignition coil pin to ground pin - infinite on all meter settings
CDI plugged in - meter in 200 vac setting - kill switches in run position - ignition coil pin to ground pin - 0 volts
#5
Testing both wires, the wire from the stator to cdi and the wire going into the stator, they both show closed, they zero out on the 200k ohm setting.
With the meter on the 750 vac setting - negative terminal to engine ground and positive terminal to ac power wire - while cranking the engine - no voltage.
Should there be a dc power wire going to the stator?
I have the #3 stator magneto that is on the sunl website.
Stator Magneto 03 for Chinese 50-70-90-110cc Engines - Sm272-03 - 50cc - 125cc Stators - Stator Magnetos - Electrical Parts - In Stock at Sunlpartsonline
With the meter on the 750 vac setting - negative terminal to engine ground and positive terminal to ac power wire - while cranking the engine - no voltage.
Should there be a dc power wire going to the stator?
I have the #3 stator magneto that is on the sunl website.
Stator Magneto 03 for Chinese 50-70-90-110cc Engines - Sm272-03 - 50cc - 125cc Stators - Stator Magnetos - Electrical Parts - In Stock at Sunlpartsonline
#6
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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My comments embedded in blue...
Testing both wires, the wire from the stator to cdi and the wire going into the stator, they both show closed, they zero out on the 200k ohm setting. [Huh? This is the complete opposite of what you said in your last post (you said the resistance to ground was infinite). Closed means shorted. So are you measuring the resistance of the ignition power wire to ground at the stator? (this is what I asked you to do ). Or are you doing something completely different? If you really are measuring zero ohms on the 200,000 ohm scale (200K ohm), then turn down the scale until you read something significant. Go to the 20K ohm, or the 2K ohm scale (or even the 200 ohm scale if necessary) until you get a reading that is other than zero. ]
With the meter on the 750 vac setting - negative terminal to engine ground and positive terminal to ac power wire - while cranking the engine - no voltage.
Should there be a dc power wire going to the stator? [Never - unless something is seriously wrong. The stator always *outputs* both voltage and current. It is never the other way on a working quad. And the output voltage and current is *always* AC - never DC. The energy being input to the stator of a working quad is mechanical. Any load on the electrical side gets transformed to a mechanical load on the engine since a loaded stator is harder to turn. ]
I have the #3 stator magneto that is on the sunl website.
Stator Magneto 03 for Chinese 50-70-90-110cc Engines - Sm272-03 - 50cc - 125cc Stators - Stator Magnetos - Electrical Parts - In Stock at Sunlpartsonline
With the meter on the 750 vac setting - negative terminal to engine ground and positive terminal to ac power wire - while cranking the engine - no voltage.
Should there be a dc power wire going to the stator? [Never - unless something is seriously wrong. The stator always *outputs* both voltage and current. It is never the other way on a working quad. And the output voltage and current is *always* AC - never DC. The energy being input to the stator of a working quad is mechanical. Any load on the electrical side gets transformed to a mechanical load on the engine since a loaded stator is harder to turn. ]
I have the #3 stator magneto that is on the sunl website.
Stator Magneto 03 for Chinese 50-70-90-110cc Engines - Sm272-03 - 50cc - 125cc Stators - Stator Magnetos - Electrical Parts - In Stock at Sunlpartsonline
#7
Sorry I did all the tests again and it showed the same as the first time. I must have done something different? Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for all your help. I ordered a new Stator and i will let you know if it works
Thanks again for all your help!!!!! It is very much appreciated!!!!!
Thanks again for all your help!!!!! It is very much appreciated!!!!!
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