Remote Kill Switch Removal
#1
Remote Kill Switch Removal
I have a SUNL SLA-135 ATV. I have unhooked the Remote Kill Switch Module from the wiring harness. I have been having issues with the ATV shutting off by itself and the battery not staying charged. I read somewhere that the remote kill switch could cause these issues.
Since I have unhooked the remote kill switch, the kill switch on the handle bar no longer works, and of course the key switch doesn't work either (it didn't work prior to disconnecting the remote kill switch). I have no way to stop the engine execpt with the choke.
The handle bar kill switch has two wires Green and Black/White.
The connector to the Remote Kill Switch in the wiring harness has these color wires:
Red
Green
Black
Blue
Black/White
Yelllow/Green
Yellow/Red
The Remote Kill Switch has two connectors, a two wire and an eight wire.
Two wire has Green and Black/White. These connect to a yellow round module which I would say is the alarm.
The eight wire connector has these colors:
Red
Green
Black/White
White/Black
Yellow/Red
Blue
Orange
Black
The Orange wire appears to go to a blank in the wiring harness connector because it only has seven wires to it.
What wires in the harness connector do I need to short together to restore the handle bar kill switch and the key switch if possible?
Since I have unhooked the remote kill switch, the kill switch on the handle bar no longer works, and of course the key switch doesn't work either (it didn't work prior to disconnecting the remote kill switch). I have no way to stop the engine execpt with the choke.
The handle bar kill switch has two wires Green and Black/White.
The connector to the Remote Kill Switch in the wiring harness has these color wires:
Red
Green
Black
Blue
Black/White
Yelllow/Green
Yellow/Red
The Remote Kill Switch has two connectors, a two wire and an eight wire.
Two wire has Green and Black/White. These connect to a yellow round module which I would say is the alarm.
The eight wire connector has these colors:
Red
Green
Black/White
White/Black
Yellow/Red
Blue
Orange
Black
The Orange wire appears to go to a blank in the wiring harness connector because it only has seven wires to it.
What wires in the harness connector do I need to short together to restore the handle bar kill switch and the key switch if possible?
#2
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
More info is needed:
Does your CDI look like this:
(This is a 5 pin CDI as compared to a 4 pin CDI).
If so, then what is the wire color on the Kill Switch pin in your wiring harness?
Normally when you disconnect the remote control module the only thing that changes is that you can no longer turn off the quad with the ignition switch - you have to use the handlebar kill switch insted. But you say that doesn't work. so there are more issues here to resolve.
There are aftermarket remote modules out there. Does this remote module look like a factory installation or does it look like it was added later?
Does your CDI look like this:
(This is a 5 pin CDI as compared to a 4 pin CDI).
If so, then what is the wire color on the Kill Switch pin in your wiring harness?
Normally when you disconnect the remote control module the only thing that changes is that you can no longer turn off the quad with the ignition switch - you have to use the handlebar kill switch insted. But you say that doesn't work. so there are more issues here to resolve.
There are aftermarket remote modules out there. Does this remote module look like a factory installation or does it look like it was added later?
#3
Additional info
My CDI looks just like the one below. The Kill wire is blue.
Yes it is a factory install. Like I stated the handle bar kill switch worked until I disconnected the wireless remote kill box. The key switch quit working a few months ago, but I didn't care since the switch on the handle bar worked. Not sure what happened to the key switch though. One note the tether kill switch was removed last summer.
Yes it is a factory install. Like I stated the handle bar kill switch worked until I disconnected the wireless remote kill box. The key switch quit working a few months ago, but I didn't care since the switch on the handle bar worked. Not sure what happened to the key switch though. One note the tether kill switch was removed last summer.
#4
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
So much for relying on standard wire colors...
Ok, so your CDI kill switch wire is Blue. Your kill switch on the handlebar is blk/white (at least this wire color is standard). Run a jumper wire bewteen these two and see if it kills the engine when you engage the kill switch. You might get away with the black/white wire on the remote connector to the blue wire on the same connector, but the surer bet is to jumper the CDi kill wire directly to handlebar kill wire.
Ok, so your CDI kill switch wire is Blue. Your kill switch on the handlebar is blk/white (at least this wire color is standard). Run a jumper wire bewteen these two and see if it kills the engine when you engage the kill switch. You might get away with the black/white wire on the remote connector to the blue wire on the same connector, but the surer bet is to jumper the CDi kill wire directly to handlebar kill wire.
#5
I did exactly what you said last night before I read your post. I ran a short blue wire from the Remote Kill Switch connector and the Black/White wire of the handlebar kill switch connector after testing with an ohm meter to make sure the blue wire was the same as the one attached to the CDI. Works like a charm. I had tried the black/white and blue on the remote kill switch connector, but that didn't work. It seems that the wiring color isn't consistent to me or I just don't know enough about how they are wired.
Next issue I am having all of a sudden is that the ATV will not idle without the choke partly on. Any suggestions?
Next issue I am having all of a sudden is that the ATV will not idle without the choke partly on. Any suggestions?
#7
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
12 Posts
Those two yellow wires go to the battery charge winding on the stator. One some quads this winding has one side grounded, and two different voltage taps on the hot side. These wires are usually yellow and white. Other quads have a single winding with no connection to ground in the stator. Both sides of the winding go to the regulator. They can be two yellow wires, or a yellow and white.
There are also quads with three phase battery charge windings. In this case there would be three yellow wires to the regulator, but this would require more than 4 pins on the regulator.
There are also quads with three phase battery charge windings. In this case there would be three yellow wires to the regulator, but this would require more than 4 pins on the regulator.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)