If the reed petals are not flush, can it cause the motor to not start?

 

If reed petals are slightly open,shouldn't cause too much fuel,BUT if really distorted and flared or split can cause fouling. Check compression and spark,replace reeds if needed. DON"T turn reed petals over to compensate,can cause to break off. OPT

 

My ride is a 1997 sportsman 400, 4x4, 2-stroke. I bought it not running from a guy who said one day he was riding it and it just quit and couldn't get it to start again.
Since I've had it, I've checked compression, 120 psi, checked most of the electrical, has good spark (champion plug, but bought new ngk's to try this weekend), checked plug wire and cap, ignition switch, cleaned carb/jets/seat twice. Also checked gas tank vent.
It won't start. I bought a new battery but sounds like the starter sounds like its slipping, so am using pullstart.
I checked intake boot and reeds. Petals on one side are about 1/16 or so from flush, so bought some boyesen reeds to install this weekend, and well as a carb kit.
There is one brown wire from the cdi that isn't attached to anything. I think it may go to the headlight but not sure. But I'm pretty sure it is a ground wire.
Exhaust doesn't feel like its plugged.

Here is what I know for sure:

1.Spark Plug is DRY (reeds?)
2.Good Compression
3. Getting Fuel TO the Carb (not leaking)
4.Getting spark

Any advise is appreciated.

 

Wire from cdi sounds like to kill circuit.(brown or black wire?) Most people black wire if they loose spark (usually ign switch or left control switch problem) If has spark and you have trouble shooted all you can,compression,carb fuel,etc,you might check the crank seals,especially behind the drive clutch,could be loss of compression on bottom end,this can cause hard to start/no start condition. Reeds dont sound like the problem. OPT

 

+1 on crank seal if engine back fired it could have pop seal out under flywheel IMO. Good Luck,

 

I didn't really understand this, please clarify. Thanks.

 

If the wire is BROWN then its a ground wire,if Black then it is the kill wire that plugs into the harness,operates from the ignition switch OR the emergency control switch on left handle bar to cut power to cdi. OPT

 

I forgot to mention that all of the bulbs were blown I guess because the guy I bought it from didn't use a battery. Anyway, I put a bulb in the tail light, it works as does the brake light, but it won't turn off with the left hand light switch.
I have taken the left hand switch apart and cleaned the contacts, etc.,

Could there be a kill switch problem not letting the motor start?

 

if it has spark it is not the kill switch, as stated earlier check your crank seals, i doubt it the reeds but wont hurt to change them out and try it.

Also i would recheck compression to make sure you are getting apositive reading, because this is what sounds like your problem.

 

I installed new reeds, carb kit, choke cable, new plug, still won't start. I pulled flywheel off and crank seal looks ok. I cleaned up the stator contacts and looked for broken wires, etc. Seems fine.
Spark seems weak. I ohmed out the pulse and exciter coils from what I've read here they check out ok. Ignition coil primary/secondary ohmed out ok also.
I clamped intake boot and airbox tight, checked fuel stream from fuel tank, compression still strong.
Still not getting fuel to plug.

Here are the ohm readings:



STATOR COILS

-WHITE TO WHITE/RED STRIPE, 100 OHMS
-EXCITER COILS (2-WIRE)-RED TO BLACK/RED STRIPE, 223 OHMS



IGNITION COIL

-COIL SPADE CONNECTOR TO COIL GROUND - .5 OHMS
-PLUG WIRE TO COIL GROUND-5.83 OHMS (20K SCALE)
-COIL WIRE W/PLUG ATTACHED TO COIL GROUND-10.73 OHMS (20K SCALE)
-WHITE/BLUE STRIPE IGNITION WIRE FROM CDI TO FRAME GROUND-542 OHMS
-WHITE/BLUE STRIPE IGNITION WIRE FROM CDI TO BLACK GROUND WIRE FROM CDI-1067 OHMS (2000K SCALE)



VOLTAGE REGULATOR

-RED TO BROWN WIRES GOING TO MOTOR-195 (2000K SCALE)
-YELLOW/RED STRIPE FROM STATOR TO FRAME GROUND-490 OHMS (2000K SCALE)
-YELLOW/BROWN STRIPE FROM STATOR-NO READING
-YELLOW WIRE FROM STATOR-NO READING