My son was riding the atv and it just stopped. Does not crank. It seems there is no power to anything. The taillight will not even light up. Battery has charge and fuse is good. Any ideas what the problem is. Could the remote kill switch module be stopping the power?

 

I don't think the remote module can remove power. You can always try to unplug it to see if it makes any difference. I doubt it though.

Just for grins take a screwdriver and short across the big starter solenoid terminals. Follow the heavy wire from the battery positive terminal to find the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid also is a heavy wire which goes to the starter motor. Shorting these two will manually engage the starter motor. Don't mind some minor sparking. Starters draw a fair amount of current. Does it start turning? What this test does is prove that the battery is both charged and good.

Assuming the battery is good and the starter turns, recheck that main fuse again. All current other than the starter current flows through that fuse. Next in line is the ignition switch. All current which makes it through the fuse will also travel through the ignition switch except for a teeny trickle which goes to the remote module. Since headlights / taillights / etcetera don't work, and they are all fed from this point, you should be looking carefully between the battery and this point. Wiggle wires, and look for bad connections.

If the starter motor turns when you short the solenoid terminals then I think this proves that the ground returns to the battery minus terminal are OK.

If you find nothing obvious above then get yourself a voltmeter and we'll proceed from there.

 

Disconnected key switch from wiring harness. Tested for power on red wire on harnes with test light. Light lit up so proved fuse good and battery had power.

Next took ohm meter and tested key switch. With key in off position, B/W & G wire have continuity and R & B no continuity. With key in on position, R & B have continutiy and B/W & G no continuity. Asumption is R & B wire are ignition power and B/W & G kill switch.

Next plugged key switch back into wiring harness. Unplugged CDI from wiring harness and reconnected. Unplugged another large connector from Wiring harness and reconnected. Turned on key switch and pulled break lever and brake light came on. Hit start button and atv started. Let run a couple of minutes and used kill switch on handle bars to shut off. Reached up and pulled brake lever and no brake light.

At this point I decided that the issue must be in the break lever switch. Fooled with it a few minutes and nothing. I could here the switch click. Finally I took the palm of my hand and jabbed the lever several times and the break light came on. I decided that it wasn't making good contact in side or something. I sprayed some silicone in the switch and the kill switch and worked them several times. Now the break lever switch seems to work correclty. Some moisture must have gotten into the switch when it was rained on during a trip home a couple of weeks ago. Anyway the switch is working and the ATV will start and run.

This doesn't explain why it quit suddenly since the switch isn't activated while ATV is running unless you are applying brakes. But does explain what it wouldn't crank or no brake light.

Something odd has happend though. Now the key switch will not stop the engine when turned off. I must use the kill switch on the handel bars to stop engine. I can turn key switch off and remove key and ATV stays running. This was not the way it was before. You could kill the engine with the key switch or kill switch. Key switch must be on for the starter to activate and brake light to work though. Any idea as to why that has changed? Not that big of deal but strange.

Do you have any diagram of wiring harness or explantion of what each color of wire is for?

Thanks for any guidence you can give.

 

Correct.

Correct.

Those brake switches are really horrible. I was constantly fiddling with the adjustment on mine. I got so frustrated with mine I bought a used Honda 750 brake switch off eBay. I had to put new connectors on the switch and harness, and I had to stretch the spring that pulls the plunger to get it into adjustment range, but it has been working flawlessy now for a year. Well worth the six bucks.

I agree. Is it possible the handlebar kill switch may have been accidently bumped?

The symptoms you describe are exactly what happens when the remote control module is unplugged. The kill switch connection from the ignition switch is routed through the remote module so that the quad cannot be turned off by the ignition switch when under remote control. As for why they designed it this way, I have no idea. But that is how it is. I'd check that connector to see if it isn't plugged in all the way. Just for grins look again at the black/white and green wires at the ignition switch.

065KFR was kind enough to post a 110cc wiring diagram for a giovanni. It doesn't have the remote wiring though:

http://forums.atvconnection.com/kids...g-diagram.html

Here is a manual link for another 110cc quad with a remote module. The wiring diagram is on the last page. I really don't know if it is 100% accurate, but it is probably very close.

http://www.adventureimports.co.nz/in...ATV_manual.pdf