If it were me I'd take a divide and conquer approach. I'd get the ignition system wired up and working, and wire up a crude "manual" starter solenoid to allow the starter to turn. Then once the engine is running go on from there to get the rest of the systems working one at a time. After all, it doesn't make any sense to vet out the headlight wiring only to find the engine is toast.
The ignition system runs off its own high voltage AC supply generated in the stator (this is compleletely separate from the battery charging system which is also in the stator). You do not need the battery or regulator for the quad to run. But you will a charged battery to run the starter motor.
As a reference check out the following link:
http://www.adventureimports.co.nz/in...ATV_manual.pdf
It has a wiring diagram in the back for a 110cc machine which is probably very similar to yours, and includes a remote control unit.
Is this your CDI?
You need to wire up all these pins. Ground is usually green. The ignition power and trigger wires come from the stator and are usually black/red, and blue/white respectively. The stator also usually has a green ground wire that will need to make it to engine ground.
There is high voltage on several of the stator and CDI pins including the kill switch(es). Mind your fingers when working around these connections when the engine is turning.
The kill switch pin typically goes to several kill switches, any one of which, when closed, will kill the engine by killing the spark. Typical kill switches are the tether pull cord, one pole of the ignition switch, the handlebar kill switch, and the remote control unit. Note that *ALL* of the kill switch must be open (not shorted) for the engine to run. Any one of the kill switches shorted to ground will *kill* the engine. The kill switch wires are usually black/white. When wiring in the kill switch connection make sure that the kill switch line is not shorted to ground when the kill switches are off, and that at least one kill switch can short the line to ground in the off position (so if the engine later on does start up you can shut it off).
The ignition coil primary is driven from the CDI. The secondary connects to the spark plug. The only other connection is to ground. Sometimes there is a green wire that connects up engine ground. Sometimes the connection is through a bolt. Sometimes there's both.
The solenoid needs to be only partially hooked up for the first phase. Connect up the two big screw lugs: One heavy red wire goes from one solonoid post to the battery plus terminal. The other post (with a big heavy red wire) goes to the starter motor input post. And a big heavy green wire goes from the battery negative terminal to the engine block, usually close to the starter. The other two small wires on the solenoid, when 12 volts is applied across them, pulls in a plate which shorts those two big posts together which starts the starter turning. But we don't need to worry about that yet - to turn the starter just short those two post together with a screwdriver to make the starter turn.
So once the CDI and coil are wired up, a charged battery and the two large solenoid posts are wired up, and at least one kill switch is wired up and functioning, it is time to start the engine. Make sure the kill switch(es) is/(are) in the run position and short the solenoid posts with a screwdriver. If it is wired up right and the engine is in good shape with fuel it will start up. The its on to phase two: Getting the charging system working, or maybe getting the starting system (and all the safety interlocks) working.